Trekking, hidden alleyways, and packed lunch: the unexpected (affordable) Capri

When you arrive at the beach of Marina Grande, a glance is enough to immediately perceive that you are in one of the world's hotspots: Capri. The usual bustling activity of a small island's port is enlivened by colorful taxis, open cars waiting for tourists, drivers from grand hotels awaiting their clients, and even a few restaurants. It's not uncommon to spot a van from Zuma, ready to take trendy customers to Anacapri, where the nippo-fusion restaurant chain opened last year on the picturesque terrace of the Capri Palace Jumeirah. This is a bit removed from the island's more beaten paths, where international luxury brands vie for shopfronts in the streets around the piazzetta. Here, the high concentration of luxury brands can make those with more modest means feel out of place. But amidst those entering and exiting boutiques wearing Oran sandals (if there's one place where they're all authentic, it's Capri) and those living on more normal budgets, there's room for everyone here; you just have to look well.

The Fortini Trail and Aldo's Sandwiches

Right from the landing, where Salumeria Da Aldo ensures everyone gets a well-filled sandwich. The most popular is the Caprese, naturally, with well-seasoned tomato slices and mozzarella. Variants are within reach (and for everyone): with ham, tuna, pickles, just take a number and get inspired by the counter while waiting for your turn. Five euros per sandwich, a half baguette that ensures satisfaction all day. While queuing to pay, it's best to check out the fridge and the displayed fruit; whatever you need is available at almost mainland prices. An essential stop for those planning a boat tour around the island to discover the many hidden caves, which are an unmissable attraction: the Blue Grotto, of course (prepare for a long wait to visit it), but also the Coral Cave, the Sailor's Cave, the White Cave, and others. There are many, and any island tour will show them, with opportunities for magnificent swims. Beach choices are very limited on rocky Capri: there are a few high-end beach clubs, like the one near the Faraglioni, but there's also a small free beach below the Punta Carena Lighthouse, Italy's second-largest, offering enchanting sunsets.

It can be reached with a lovely walk starting from the Blue Grotto on the western coast: the Fortini Trail. A nice trek for those who want to alternate sea baths with a more active holiday. It takes 3 to 5 hours to reach Punta Carena, which can be quite challenging in the summer heat, which can be truly oppressive. Therefore, we recommend starting early in the morning and taking a swim break at Fortino di Mesola. There are indeed a few access points to the sea along the path connecting these ancient military posts built in the early 19th century. Starting from the Blue Grotto, you arrive, after just 300 meters, at Fortino di Orrico on Punta del Miglio, about 30 meters above the sea. Orrico's cannons crossed fire with those of Fortino di Mesola (which some call Campetiello, like the eponymous promontory) and Fortino di Pino (the closest to the Punta Carena Lighthouse) to ward off unwanted ships.

Buonocore's Frittata and Ice Cream

The island also offers beautiful walks closer to the town center. The piazzetta is the starting point for two walks: one begins from Via Vittorio Emanuele and passes by Quisisana, a historic hotel that dominates the scene. Just before it, there's Buonocore, a gelateria that has been a pleasant stop for over 50 years. Very popular during peak hours, especially for the freshly made waffle cone that spreads an inviting aroma from the open window. Inside, you'll find other specialties too, sweet like almond and hazelnut treats, but also savory, a legacy of the original rotisserie.

Buonocore is considered the island's first street food. The small display at the back of the shop offers crocchè and fried crostoni, stuffed escarole, pizzettes, and large frittatas by the slice, including pasta frittatas.

Stop for the essentials and then continue your walk along Via Camerelle, leave behind the glistening shop windows (not before a quick look) and feast your eyes on the panorama you can embrace with your gaze. Continue to the terrace of Punta Tragara, with the eponymous hotel and the truly magnificent view of the Faraglioni.

Via Krupp and Enzo Coccia's Pizza

Returning, there's still time to get close to Quisisana again and descend towards the Gardens of Augustus, and from there take Via Krupp, reopened a couple of years ago after being secured. Created by the German steel magnate Friedrich Alfred Krupp to quickly reach his boat moored at Marina Piccola from his hotel (the Quisisana), it's a delightful path with straight stretches and switchbacks from which you can see the Faraglioni, and access trails leading to the Castiglione Cave and the Arsenale Cave. A truly spectacular route offering a less predictable island experience. Returning, you pass by the Residenza hotel of the De Angelis family, a symbol of Capri's hotel hospitality, with the entrance garden now transformed into a green outdoor area for Enzo Coccia, along with his sons Andrea and Marco from La Notizia in Naples, who have here the branch of their Vico Pizza & Wine (acronym for Vincenzo Coccia), the Roman pizzeria where they partnered with Salotto 42, a Roman cocktail bar that confirms the collaboration in this venue as well.

Enzo Coccia's is one of the island's great novelties in terms of pizzas, along with the arrival of other giants in the sector like Ciro Oliva (in the premises that once housed the historic Gemma) and Franco Pepe (at Jumeirah Capri Palace), an unmistakable sign of the appeal of a more casual but high-level offering and the evolution of the sector, now also rightfully included in the most fashionable contexts. Enzo Coccia's offering draws heavily from local products for raw materials - oil from the association L'oro di Capri (which has reclaimed centuries-old olive groves in Anacapri, particularly along the Fortini Trail) and fish, but not only - and for the pizzas, inspired by places and characters of the island and the Sorrento Peninsula, such as the zucchini pizza, the Nerano. Salads and cold dishes are essential accompaniments to the pizzas, in such a context frequented by food lovers from around the world.