"We are in a positive phase for wine, and we are not as terrified by tariffs as is being portrayed today." The words of Agriculture Minister Francesco Lollobrigida, speaking at the presentation of the 57th edition of Vinitaly, exude optimism, despite the threats of 200% tariffs from across the ocean and the many appeals addressed to the Government by leading denominations and industry associations deeply concerned about the halt in orders from the US market.
The real danger is the demonisation of wine
"The data show that the wine sector has achieved record highs never seen before, which can be a good starting point to reach even more. Italy has no reason to stop: there is demand. The mandate for negotiations lies with Europe," adds the Minister, "but Italy will play its part thanks to its privileged relations with the United States."
However, for Lollobrigida, the real danger comes from the demonisation of wine, particularly from Europe: "The main problem we face is not tariffs, but the constant attack on this product. There is no tariff that, in terms of future strategic outlook, can do as much damage as saying that wine is poison."
For this reason, in Verona, he has invited the European Health Minister Várhelyi and the Agriculture Minister Hansen, who will address the issue of labelling to ensure proper consumer information.
Lollobrigida’s call for optimism
"Pessimists die every day, optimists only once," Lollobrigida adds. "There will be time to mourn, but for now, we can be pleased with the figures from the past few months, which have seen exports rise and soar, partly due to the risk of tariffs. Let’s allow ourselves a moment of joy every now and then. Then, if tariffs do come, we will have time to console ourselves with a good glass of wine."
The response from associations
However, at the same Vinitaly presentation, industry associations reminded everyone that there is little reason for optimism. "I don’t want to alarm anyone," said UIV Secretary Paolo Castelletti, "but this is not a good moment. Global consumption is declining, and tariffs are a major concern. Even tariffs of 20-25% would be enough to put the sector in serious difficulty, given that Italian wine in the US currently falls within the $10-20 price range, and with tariffs, it would exceed this, losing an important competitive edge. That’s why our priority is to remove wine from trade disputes. If tariffs do come, then we would need to appeal to distributors, as the entire cost cannot simply be passed on to the end consumer."
Finally, Castelletti urged the swift conclusion of trade agreements with Mercosur and India.
Federvini President Micaela Pallini echoed this sentiment: "In past years, we have already experienced US tariffs on spirits and know what it means: with additional tariffs of 25%, we lost 40% of volumes in just a year and a half. The US market cannot simply be replaced in the short term, so our appeal to politicians is to fight for the sector."
Where to eat in the Majella park, amidst stunning landscapes and authentic cuisine
No more identical venues and overtourism food—let’s start again with lunch and trattorias
Masseto, Churchill, and 30 years in one evening: how an Italian wine legend evolves
At Vinitaly and The City, the Gambero Rosso "Vini d'Italia" tasting returns
Not just the United States. Here’s the map of the Countries with the highest tariffs on wine
