Conveniently reachable from Milan in 3 and a half hours by high-speed train, Ancona, overlooking the Adriatic, is a city that lends itself to various types of tourism. Sea lovers can enjoy the beaches of Portonovo and the Conero Riviera, with pristine beaches and crystal-clear water. For nature enthusiasts, the Conero Park offers unique trails and panoramas. It is also a pleasure to take a stroll in the historic center, visiting museums and admiring monuments, palaces, and churches.
Where to eat Anconetana-style stockfish
Trattoria 13 Cannelle
Trattoria. In the heart of the capital, near the Renaissance Fountain of Calamo, better known as the Fountain of the Thirteen Cannelle (which gives the name to the place), a cozy spot appreciated for its simple and well-executed cuisine in the tradition of both sea and land. On the seafood front, mention the marinated anchovies with paccasassi (wild herbs from Conero), moscioli (wild mussels typical of Portonovo) marinara, tagliolini with seafood, spaghetti with stockfish, mixed Adriatic fried, and again, Anconetana-style stockfish. Good wines are also available. When the weather permits, you can sit outdoors with a view of the Fountain.
Trattoria 13 Cannelle – corso G. Mazzini, 108 – 071 206012 – www.facebook.com/p/Trattoria-Alle-Tredici-Cannelle
Osteria La Bottega di Pinocchio
Trattoria. On one of the highest hills in the city, a place to keep in mind for simple and genuine meals at more than reasonable prices. Moreover, there is the opportunity to fill your shopping bag with ready-made dishes, cold cuts, cheeses, and many other good things. Tradition is the protagonist of dishes with intense flavors, plus fresh pasta and homemade desserts. Anconetana-style stockfish enthusiasts will find a dedicated tasting for 35 euros, including a small appetizer, marinated anchovies, ciabattini (handmade fresh pasta) with stockfish, Anconetana-style stockfish, homemade tarts, water, and coffee. There are also meat, fish, and vegetarian menus.
Osteria La Bottega di Pinocchio – via del Pinocchio, 46 – 071 898010-338 4440543 – www.bottegadipinocchio.it
Trattoria Carotti
Trattoria. Included in the regional list as a Historic Locale of the Marche, it is an address with over 70 years of activity, always maintaining a respectable standard. A few minutes from the center, it presents itself with a welcoming atmosphere and a culinary proposal that moves between land and sea with guaranteed satisfaction. Among the "strong" dishes, first of all, there is Anconetana-style stockfish, highlighting a manual execution. If desired, it can be preceded by half-sleeves with stockfish, or another recommended first is spaghetti with moscioli. Following that, rabbit in porchetta, cuttlefish and peas, and good homemade desserts.
Trattoria Carotti – via Ascoli Piceno, 70 – 071 898139 – www.trattoriacarotti.it
Gino
Trattoria. In front of the Central Station, just outside the center, it is a family-run table in business since its inception in 1967. People come here to taste typical dishes according to recipes established through years of experience. Examples? Mixed greens with cod and dried fruit, paccheri with stockfish (so abundant that they can serve as a main course), classic clam spaghetti, chitarrina with seafood, Anconetana-style stockfish, and mixed fried or grilled Adriatic fish. Genuine ingredients and generous portions. House wine and a few bottles to complete the picture. Outdoor tables are available.
Gino – piazza F.lli Nello e Carlo Rosselli, 26 – 071 2141163
La Moretta
Trattoria. An ancient sign born in 1897, still today one of the most renowned and frequented places in the capital, thanks in part to the passion with which it is managed by Corrado Bilò. Overlooking one of the most central and beautiful squares in the city, it has gained a well-deserved reputation for its solid mostly traditional cuisine. At the top of the list is certainly Anconetana-style stockfish, prepared with all the trimmings in respect of tradition. The famous brodetto is no less, a soup of fish of a dozen varieties cooked with vinegar and aromas, served with slices of toasted homemade bread. The warm environment with wooden furnishings is complemented by a beautiful outdoor area. In the cellar, valid regional references.
La Moretta – piazza del Plebiscito, 52 – 071 202317 – www.ristorantetrattorialamoretta.com
Trattoria Da Nordio
Trattoria. A solid sign where you can be sure to enjoy recipes from the tradition that have become real flagships, executed by experienced hands and with quality ingredients. The land side offers a sumptuous Made in Marche XX with cold cuts, cheeses, and delights, the tasty mixed fry alla marchigiana, pork shin. The "fish" side features a special tasting menu Re Stocco, which at 50 euros per person offers creamy whipped cod with fried polenta sticks, a sort of homage to Venice, then ridged Mancini paccheri with stockfish sauce, Anconetana-style stockfish, vegetable crudités, and dry pastry.
Trattoria Da Nordio – via San Martino, 25/A – 071 2072391 – www.facebook.com/trattoriadanordio/
Trattoria del Piano
Trattoria. In business since 1967, in the Grazie district, it is a simple, almost Spartan place, with some outdoor tables in the good season and an atmosphere of times gone by. The daily proposal is reported on a special blackboard and changes almost daily according to the market, except for Anconetana-style stockfish, a declared specialty of the house and always present. You can also enjoy peppered mussels, tagliatelle with seafood, ciavattoni (fresh pasta made by them) with stockfish sauce, cuttlefish and peas, rabbit in porchetta. Tiramisu and English soup to end on a sweet note, with house wine to accompany everything.
Trattoria del Piano – piazza d’Armi, 2 – 071 894339-349 6709276 – www.facebook.com/p/Trattoria-del-PIANO