The "bollito," a laborious and calorie-rich preparation from the Italian gastronomic tradition, especially in the Northern regions, undoubtedly falls into the category of comfort food. For those who don't feel like or don't have time to prepare it at home, here are the top 10 restaurants in and outside of Milan selected by Gambero Rosso:
Where to Eat "Bollito" in Milan and Surroundings:
Trattoria Aurora
Trattoria. This Liberty-style establishment in the Tortona area exudes a pleasant atmosphere of bygone days with its large windows and delightful courtyard, perfect for the mild season. Here, the "bollito" is honoured at its best, presented on a sumptuous cart showcasing various cuts such as "cappello del prete," beef muscle, veal head, tongue, cotechino, hen, beef brisket, tail... Accompanied by green and red sauces, mustard, pickled vegetables, balsamic vinegar peppers, and Moscatelli cucumbers. Other typical dishes on the menu include "ossobuco in gremolada" with yellow risotto. The wine list is well-focused.
Trattoria Aurora – via Savona, 23 – 02 8323144 – Facebook
Agostino Campari
Restaurant. This establishment, dedicated to the family patriarch Agostino Campari, managed by him along with his wife Giancarla and their children Alberto (sommelier) and Chiara (in the kitchen). It's truly worth travelling the few kilometres from Milan to Abbiategrasso, especially to savour one of the best "bollitos" around, served from a trolley. It includes liver mortadella, veal head, veal tip, chicken, beef, cotechino, tongue, accompanied by fruit and vegetable mustard, sweet and sour onions, and other delicacies. The selection of labels is more than satisfactory.
Agostino Campari – Abbiategrasso (MI) via Novara, 81 – 02 9420329 – www.agostinocampari.it
Al Casottel
Trattoria. Just outside the centre, in the Corvetto area, an enduring address, a solid bastion of Milanese culinary tradition, born in the late 1990s in a renovated farmhouse with an external pergola that gives the feeling of not being in Milan. Frequented by a diverse clientele, it offers an unpretentious environment because what matters, the substance, is all in the dishes. It starts with homemade pasta and beans or gnocchi with ragù, followed by a hearty mixed "bollito" or tripe. From Monday to Friday, a lunch menu is available for €15.
Al Casottel – via Fabio Massimo, 25 – 02 57403009 – www.casottel.it
Al’ Less
Trattoria. As the sign declares, this place in the Città Studi area pays homage to the mixed "bollito," the king of the table, complete with all the appropriate accompaniments. The menu also presents, on rotation and according to the season, the most famous Piedmontese and Lombard specialties: "mondeghili," "insalata di nervetti," risotto with "ossobuco," agnolotti, "plin" in broth. Meat takes the spotlight, between a Fassona tartare and a Nebbiolo braised veal. The wine list is not vast but well thought out. The original setting is housed inside a former greenhouse, with vintage furnishings.
Al’ Less – viale Lombardia, 28 – 345 5499830 – www.alless.it
Locanda del Menarost
Trattoria. In a quiet street in the Delle Regioni area, a restaurant with a pleasant convivial atmosphere, wooden tables and chairs, essential settings, and shelves filled with wine bottles on the walls. All the classics of the tradition are there, from "mondeghili" to "insalata di nervetti," from yellow risotto to cutlet, from tripe to "ossobuco." The grand mixed "bollito" served with mustard and green sauce could not be missing. Don't miss Locanda's tiramisu and sheep's ricotta tart to end on a high note. The wine selection of regional and national labels is highly satisfying.
Locanda del Menarost – via G. Compagnoni, 24 – 02 73951036 – www.menarost.it
Ristorante Macelleria Motta
Restaurant. Over 13 years have passed since Sergio Motta, owner of the renowned Motta butcher shop in Inzago known for excellent meats, decided to open a restaurant dedicated to carnivores. In the refrigerated cells, there are splendid cuts to choose from, cooked as preferred, but enthusiasts of the genre cannot overlook the "bollito," a triumph for both sight and palate. It includes tongue, veal head, tail, "cappello del prete," beef brisket, capon, cotechino, served with green sauce, mustard, horseradish, fruit mustard, and pickled vegetables. The wine list is extensive and well-organised.
Ristorante Macelleria Motta – Bellinzago Lombardo (MI) frazione Villa Fornaci strada Padana Superiore, 30 – 02 95784123 – www.ristorantemacelleriamotta.it
Non Solo Lesso
Restaurant. In the Buenos Aires area, a welcoming venue with plenty of wood giving a warm tone and rustic furnishings with vintage objects creating a reassuring atmosphere that precedes an equally reassuring menu where the undisputed star is the "bollito." It appears opulent with its many cuts and is served with a variety of delightful sauces, satisfying the eyes and palates of many fans of this delicacy. The menu also includes other dishes of Piedmontese and Lombard origin. Gelato, sorbets, and spoon desserts are offered for a delightful closure. The wines are in line with the cuisine.
Non Solo Lesso – via G. Jan (angolo via F. Redi) – 02 36533440 – www.nonsololesso.it
La Piana
Restaurant. Behind this sign is the passion of chef Gilberto Farina, who, in his kingdom, reinterprets tradition with sensitivity and care. Every Thursday and Friday, they offer the Gran Mixed "Bollito" menu with 3 courses: "insalatina di nervetti" and cannellini bean salad with extra virgin olive oil potatoes (or cappelletti in mixed broth), the Gran "Bollito" with fruit mustard, green sauce, and homemade pickled cucumbers, a small selection of cheeses (or bonet with amaretti) for €40. The cellar includes good bottles. And don't worry if you indulge in libations; La Piana is also a comfortable inn.
La Piana – Carate Brianza (MB) via P. Zappelli, 15 – 0362 909266 – www.ristorantelapiana.com
La Pobbia 1850
Trattoria. A historic establishment in the Certosa area run by generations of the Anzaghi family. From the beginning, the culinary proposal follows tradition but also includes seasonal dishes, along with homemade bread, fresh pasta, and homemade desserts and cookies. Among the strictly Milanese specialties stands out the "el di del less mist" (the day of the mixed "bollito"), only available on Tuesdays from November to February. For €38 per person, veal tongue and head, beef brisket, hen, cotechino, "cappello del prete" with a cup of broth, boiled vegetables, green sauce, fruit mustard, and horseradish sauce are served. Also included in the price is the final chocolate salami.
La Pobbia 1850 – via Gallarate, 92 – 02 38006641 – www.lapobbia.com
Rigolo
Restaurant. In the heart of Brera, a reliable restaurant with classic style mostly frequented by regulars. From mid-November to late February, on Thursdays (for dinner, reservations required), they feature a rich "bollito" that includes "cappello del prete," veal brisket, royal beef with bone, hen, cotechino, veal tongue, smoked cup, tricorne, and veal head. To complete the meal, red onions in vinegar, Cremona fruit mustard, horseradish, pickled vegetables, green sauce, and a cup of broth, lentils, and mashed potatoes are served, satisfying the eyes and palate of many enthusiasts.
Rigolo – via Solferino, 11 (angolo largo C. Treves) – 02 86463220 – www.ristoranterigolo.it
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