For the preparation of Casoncelli, leftovers of various types of meat (beef, pork, chicken) are used, and the filling includes eggs, breadcrumbs, sultanas, amaretti cookies, spices, grated lemon zest, and cheese. Once boiled, they are drained and generously seasoned with butter, pan-fried bacon, sage, and grated Grana Padano cheese. It's worth noting that Bergamo, less than an hour's drive from Milan, is a UNESCO Creative City for cheese art and is the only Italian and European province with nine PDO cheeses and seven Orobie Princes, four of which are Slow Food Presidia. Another reason to visit this splendid city and fill your shopping basket with many delicious things. Here are the 11 best restaurants.
Where to eat Casoncelli in Bergamo
Al Carroponte
Bistrot. Thanks to Oscar Mazzoleni's boundless passion (and expertise) for wine, he transformed a former workshop into a versatile bistro loved by a diverse clientele. Ideal for a quick lunch or gourmet dinner, for an aperitif or to savor caviar, cold cuts, and cheeses, not to mention raw seafood, lobster catalana, or a delicious beef burger. Homemade traditional Casoncelli dishes also please everyone. The venue also functions as a wine bar and hosts wine tastings, boasting an impressive cellar with fair markups. The outdoor seating area is delightful.
Al Carroponte – via E. De Amicis, 4 – 035 240640 – www.alcarroponte.it
Circolino
Trattoria. In the medieval heart of the Upper Town, in a former monastery later converted into a prison, this establishment also serves as a bar and pizzeria. In winter, patrons can dine in environments embellished with seventeenth-century frescoes, and in the summer, there is a pleasant garden. The gastronomic proposal stands out for the meticulous search for raw materials and respect for tradition. The menu always features the classic meat and spice-filled Casoncelli seasoned with melted butter, sage, pan-fried bacon, and Grana Padano. Well-conceived wine cellar, showcasing local labels. Various homemade delicacies are also available for purchase.
Circolino – vicolo Sant’Agata, 19 – 035 218568 – www.ilcircolinocittaalta.it
Antica Trattoria La Colombina
Trattoria. Next to Gaetano Donizetti's birthplace in the Upper Town, this reliable establishment is the right address for a culinary journey steeped in tradition. Guests can opt for a rich tasting menu at 33 euros or choose from a menu with many enticing options. Starting with Bergamo salami and polenta, followed by the typical Casoncelli, rabbit gnocchi with white rabbit ragout, mixed boiled meat, and braised beef with polenta (yellow or taragna). A fitting conclusion with good homemade desserts. The extensive and well-articulated wine selection includes half bottles and bulk wine.
Antica Trattoria La Colombina – via Borgo Canale, 12 – 035 261402-348 2213813 – www.trattorialacolombina.it
D'Ambrosio da Giuliana
Trattoria. With over eighty years of honorable activity in the Loreto neighborhood in the western part of the city, managed by the strong-willed and charismatic Mrs. Giuliana. Here, traditional cuisine is served in an informal and convivial atmosphere that appeals to everyone. The dishes are simple but tasty and well-made, with high levels of satisfaction: Casoncelli, oven-baked pork shin, beef in oil, smoked horse shavings, and veal tail roast. Polenta is the worthy accompaniment for almost all dishes. House wine in a carafe, light bill.
D’Ambrosio da Giuliana – via Broseta, 58/A – 035 402926 – www.trattoriadambrosio.it
Osteria Al Gigianca
Trattoria. A modern concept focused on the enhancement and promotion of small local productions (the suppliers of raw materials, often Slow Food Presidia, are named here). This is presented in the traditional offering as it is (see Bergamo Casoncelli) or in something revised but faithful to the line, like sweet pepper risotto, fatulì (smoked goat cheese from Val Saviore), and parsley. Six-course tasting menu at 55 euros, the cellar follows the house's vision. A passionate team in the dining room.
Osteria Al Gigianca – via Broseta, 113 – 035 5684928 – www.algigianca.com
Da Mimì
Trattoria. Checkered white and red tablecloths, a convivial atmosphere, and a menu that allows you to taste a rich repertoire of typical dishes focusing on simplicity and the genuineness of flavors. Among the fresh pasta dishes, the classic Casoncelli filled with meat, Malga butter, bacon, and sage precede dishes such as beef braised with spined maize polenta from Gandino. Gourmet shopping at the attached store is also possible. You can also stop by for just an aperitif. The same property oversees the restaurant, inn, pizzeria, bistro, and other activities, all in the Upper Town.
Da Mimì – via B. Colleoni, 26 – 035 236263 – www.damimmoelina.com
La Scagna
Trattoria. In the Borgo San Leonardo district, a sign that in its name (scagna means chair in Bergamo dialect) aims to represent sitting down at the table and relaxing. This is also thanks to the warm rustic-style environment, with beautiful terrazzo floors, ceiling beams, wooden furnishings, and essential table settings. Managed by Adriano (in the kitchen) and Marta (in the dining room), a couple united in life and work; the kitchen is typical in every way. The Casoncelli here are handmade, crafted according to tradition, but it's worth trying one of the polenta dishes, rabbit Bergamo style, and beer-braised shin.
La Scagna – via G. Moroni, 31 – 035 0634960 – www.lascagna.it
Taiocchino - Taverna Bergamasca
Trattoria. Opened last year in the Santa Lucia district by Elisa Taiocchi (also the owner of the historic Trattoria Taiocchi in Curno), with the valuable support of her husband Ovidio Barbieriu, it was created with the idea of re-proposing ancient traditional recipes in a more contemporary reinterpretation. Leading the way are Grandma Alda's handmade Casoncelli, filled with mixed meats, amaretto, and raisins, seasoned with melted butter, crispy bacon, and grated Grana Padano. Also, worth trying is the anedrotto, or stuffed duck, and nosecc (cabbage rolls filled with meat). The place is very nice and welcoming.
Taiocchino - Taverna Bergamasca – via 24 Maggio, 2 – 351 3974562 – www.taiocchino.it
La Tana
Ristorante. In the village of San Lorenzo, in Bergamo Alta, an address to note for its warm welcome, good taste in the surroundings, and, not least, for the quality of the offering, starting with the oenological one, a real treat for enthusiasts. The cuisine is based on a meticulous search for the best ingredients, which certainly makes a difference in the dishes. Examples include chestnut pancakes, creamy pumpkin, potatoes and rosemary gel; handmade Casoncelli (like all fresh pasta and desserts); giant Orobic sheep meatballs, coconut milk reduction, and sautéed turnip tops.
La Tana – via San Lorenzo, 25 – 035 213137 – www.tanaristorante.it
Trattoria del Teatro
Trattoria. For years, always maintaining more than honorable quality standards, the restaurant is located in a characteristic and quiet corner of the Upper Town. Considered one of the best city addresses to enjoy typical Casoncelli made as tradition demands, it also offers other typical dishes prepared with quality ingredients and expert hands, such as oven-baked rabbit and beef braised, both served with polenta, or cod. To finish, nothing better than a good homemade tiramisu. A good bottle is also available in the cellar to accompany everything.
Trattoria del Teatro – piazza L. Mascheroni, 3/A – 035 238862 – trattoria-del-teatro.business.site/
Trattoria Parietti
Trattoria. Managed by the eponymous family for half a century, it is located in a quiet street in the Upper Town, and it is a place without too many frills but with a lot of substance. Checkered tablecloths on the tables, seventeenth-century landscape frescoes on the walls, and generous portions of classic Bergamo tradition on the plates, starting with the year-round classic Casoncelli recipe. Then gnocchi with venison ragout, cod, or braised or rabbit with taragna polenta, a rustic and tasty meatloaf, and sautéed pan-fried potatoes. Completing the picture are simple desserts made by them and house wine.
Trattoria Parietti – via C. Beltrami, 52 – 035 221072 – www.trattoriaparietti.it
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