Where to eat “cotoletta” in Milan. The 10 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso

In Italy, it's known as “cotoletta”. Native of Milan, so called “milanese” of course. But in Milan, you'll often find it referred to as “costoletta,” a veal chop which some prefer, especially if it comes with a bone attached. Orthodox versions come in various thicknesses and shades, ranging from pink to well-done. The Milan rulebook dictates the use of veal, preferably the rack and precisely cut into cutlets, well-dried, gently pounded (although some skip this step), breaded in breadcrumbs with the help of unsalted egg, and then fried in clarified butter, crisp and well seasoned. Thus, a great classic of Milan cuisine is born, not so easy to find comme-il-faut.

Here are the top ten places where to eat cotoletta in Milan

Super classics

A must is mentioning the proposal of Trattoria del Nuovo Macello at 20 via Cesare Lombroso (tel. 0259902122), ninety-five years of existence and managed by the same family since 1959. The chef Giovanni Traversone leads the kitchen, assisted in the dining area by his siblings Claudio and Paola. The veal cutlet, in this case 'coteletta,' is aged for forty days, and is offered in two versions: with the bone at 33 euros and boneless at 31 euros, both notably thick and pink. The atmosphere of the place is homely and somewhat bourgeois, decidedly reassuring.

In fifteen years, Osteria Brunello (corso Garibaldi 112, tel. 3386175118) has earned the reputation of being a lively force in Milan dining. Open every day for lunch and dinner, always bustling, it boasts a well-curated menu where the veal cutlet shines as a star: 230 grams of veal with the bone “handle,” breaded in dried breadcrumbs, served with arugula mayonnaise, cherry tomatoes, and oregano dressing. The price: 26 euros.

You have to travel to the Bicocca area, not exactly around the corner, but the cotoletta at the renowned Premiata Trattoria Arlati (via Alberto Nota 47, tel. 026433327) is worth the trip. Crispy, perfectly fried, with the bone protruding from the plate symbolising the generosity of this establishment that started in 1936, warm and decorated with eclectic style, resembling a bit of a flea market. The cutlet comes accompanied by classic oven-baked potatoes. And the price? Only 21 euros.

Let's mess it up a little

A countryside villa decorated in country-chic style with a beautiful garden is instead the unusual setting for another fantastic cotoletta, the one at Al Garghet (via Selvanesco 36, tel. 02534698), offered in two versions: the “coteleta” is made of well-pounded pork loin resembling an elephant's ear, served with diced tomatoes (28 euros), while the “cuteleta a la milanesa” is the classic one cooked in butter and served with oven-baked potatoes: 32 euros and available by reservation only.

Another "wrong" cotoletta, made with pork chops, that is (the owners say it all started due to an excess supply of that cut from their trusted butcher), is the specialty of Anche Milano. This delicious heresy has been the key to their success in their three locations in Isola (via Carmagnola, 5, tel. 331 822 4002), NoLo (via Oxilia, 7), and Porta Romana (via Perugino, 18). They offer a large-sized portion (between 400 and 450 grams), breaded with either pistachios or almonds, at an affordable price of 23 euros. Additionally, there's a mini version (so to speak, still weighing 200-250 grams) available in various versions priced between 16 and 20 euros.

"The Elephant Ear"

In an old farmhouse located south of the centre lies Antica Osteria del Ronchettino (via Lelio Basso 9, tel. 3425643955) with its traditional cuisine updated for contemporary tastes. Here, the cotoletta is offered in the "elephant ear" version at 38 euros, but there's also an "imperial" version weighing over two kilos meant for sharing or for truly enormous appetites, especially considering it costs a whopping 82 euros. Speaking of hefty bills, what about the one at DaV Milano, the restaurant of the Cerea brothers (think Da Vittorio in Brusaporto) on the first floor of the Allianz Tower in the heart of City Life (piazza Tre Torri 3, tel 0236723830)? The name, "Elefantino," hints at its size, priced at 120 euros, recommended for two people. Misanthropes should abstain. It comes with a side of oven-baked potatoes and confit cherry tomatoes. Not very popular but almost perfect (as it should be). Olé.

What if I want it "Imbruttita"?

The name gives away its age: Trattoria La Pesa dal 1902. It's located on the road to San Siro, at 26 via Giovanni Fantoni (tel. 0236514525), with a very classic design, truly embodying "old Milan." The cotoletta has many admirers who appreciate its tender and never tough texture. Served with oven-baked potatoes, it's priced at 23 euros. An old bowling alley, with that somewhat Milanese look, is the place to enjoy a generous and classic cotoletta, free of any gourmet fuss (although they do use Maldon salt), priced at 26 euros. It's thick, well-breaded, crispy, with an assertive "handle." One of the absolute choices, also for the atmosphere. Oh, we almost forgot: we're at Antica Osteria del Progresso, on via del Progresso 22, in the Greco area. Tel. 0245482954.

And we end up at a festival. The one daily offered by Consorzio Stoppani, a somewhat circus-like place at 15 via Stoppani, in the Porta Venezia area (tel 3313936388). An eccentric place where during the pandemic, they sat cardboard cutouts of famous celebrities for jovial social distancing. However, the cotoletta here is a very serious matter: it's "Imbruttita" and features a breading with pistachio, orange zest, oven-baked potatoes, and mustard sauce. But don't be alarmed: the cooking is perfect, and the result will please even the most discerning palates. Moreover, it's the lowest-priced item in this review: 19 euros.

by Andrea Cuomo