Where to eat goulash in Trieste: the 8 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso

Triestine goulash differs from the traditional Hungarian recipe as it includes only white onions as vegetables, in equal weight to the meat (the most suitable cut of beef is the "cappello del prete" or priest's hat). The meat is seasoned with a generous amount of paprika (both sweet and spicy) and juniper. Other ingredients include good broth, red wine, a teaspoon of cumin, a bit of flour, oil, salt, pepper, and... a lot of patience because the cooking requires a minimum of 3-4 hours. The ideal accompaniment is with steaming polenta or mashed potatoes, and from a wine perspective, a fitting pairing could be with a Nobile di Montepulciano. Here are the 8 best restaurants.

Where to eat goulash in Trieste

Alba since 1905

Trattoria. Located just a few minutes from the center in the San Giacomo district, this unassuming yet well-maintained establishment, with a small garden, is a place to stop for a quick drink and meatball or sit down for a leisurely culinary journey steeped in tradition. The menu features salted cod, jota, minestrone in bread, goulash, gnocchi with goulash, lubianska (breaded pork loin wrapping a generous layer of cooked ham and cheese), Carsolina-style chicken, potatoes "in tecia," and more. Good drinks are also available.

Alba dal 1905 – via dell’Istria, 25 – 040 2038847 – www.facebook.com/trattoriaalbatrieste/

Bier Stube Trieste

Brewery. Nestled in a characteristic corner of the Old Town, overlooking a narrow street climbing towards the Colle di San Giusto, this is a noteworthy spot for its warm small wooden spaces and the opportunity to savor authentic Triestine dishes. Highlights include flavorful liptauer (slightly spicy cheese), plum gnocchi, jota, suckling pig, and goulash served with "in tecia" potatoes. The inevitable presnitz, a rolled pastry with dried fruit, chocolate, and rum, concludes the meal. Quality craft beers and well-chosen wines are available. Reservations are recommended.

Bier Stube Trieste – via della Madonna del Mare, 6/D – 040 301277 – www.facebook.com/BuffetBierStube/

Da Giovanni

Trattoria. Midway between a typical buffet and a tavern, this sign has been a solid reference for authentic Triestine cuisine for over sixty years. Open from morning, offering well-stuffed sandwiches and tasty meatballs, it continues until 11 pm. Specialties include mixed fried fish, fluffy and light, as well as bread dumplings, jota, tripe, goulash with polenta or "in tecia" potatoes, and rich mixed boiled meats. The desserts, especially the inevitable strudel, do not disappoint.

Da Giovanni – via San Lazzaro, 14/B – 040 639396 – www.trattoriadagiovanni.com

Osteria Marise

Bistro. A charming little place with an intimate and cozy atmosphere, proper lighting, and wooden tables and chairs. The well-balanced menu between meat and fish, with options based on seasonality and market availability, includes goulash served with polenta or as a condiment for homemade spindles. Other recommended dishes are jota, boiled meats, bruschetta with salted cod cream, and spaghetti alla busara – all rich in flavor yet light. Noteworthy are the homemade desserts (crème brûlée and chocolate cake) and the non-trivial wine list, with wine-by-the-glass options.

Osteria Marise – via F. Venezian, 11/F – 040 3229149 – www.osteriamarise.it

Al Moro

Trattoria. Not far from the Municipal Hippodrome, this small and reliable family-run establishment is a solid outpost of Triestine culinary tradition. The menu features classics, starting with selections of cured meats served as an appetizer, followed by bread dumplings with goulash, goulash with "in tecia" potatoes, lubianske (the local version of cutlets), and pork ribs. Alternative daily dishes are also available. The wine selection focuses on the proposal, including a nice choice of spirits. Takeaway and delivery services are available.

Al Moro – via del Destriero, 1 – 040 2462655 – www.trattoriaalmorotrieste.com

L'Osteria Pep’s

Trattoria. In a beautiful location on Molo Audace, a few meters from the sea, this establishment offers cozy spaces with subtle background music and a veranda. Come here for an aperitif or, recommended, for a more extended stop, choosing between an enticing seafood menu or typical Triestine dishes, with a dedicated section on the menu. Among these, the beef goulash is a star, served with bread dumplings or as a condiment for potato dumplings. To stay true to tradition, try the fried sardines and calamari.

L’Osteria Pep’s – riva 3 Novembre, 3 – 040 362603 – www.facebook.com/PepsFishHouse/

Al PeTes

Restaurant. Subtitled "Wine and Food in the Old Town," this place provides a pleasant atmosphere for spending a couple of enjoyable hours. Wooden beam ceilings, well-set tables, and a tranquil atmosphere contribute to a sense of well-being. Although the kitchen line is creative, the menu includes the excellent PeTes goulash with "in tecia" potatoes. Before that, you might try ravioli in broth stuffed with cotechino and green sauce, and after the meat, you could finish with gianduia mousse, pumpkin cream, cocoa soil, marinated pumpkin, and tangerine sorbet.

Al PeTes – via dei Capitelli, 5/A – 040 2602329 – www.al-petes-com

Suban

Restaurant. Located in the San Giovanni district since 1865, Suban is a name synonymous with quality and pleasantness thanks to the solid management of the Suban family. The kitchen offers classic Triestine recipes with successful deviations. The goulash here is prepared faithfully according to the original recipe, but also try the typical jota (bean and cabbage soup), horseradish soup, and oven-baked veal shank. The wine list is well-matched, giving due space to regional producers while not forgetting interesting selections from the rest of Italy.

Suban – via E. Comici, 2 – 040 54368 – www.suban.it