After a year in purgatory and a last-gasp match, Claudio Ranieri's red-blues are back in the major league. It's time to jump on a plane or ferry to enjoy the city that’s still celenrating, without forgetting the technicolour sunsets from the bastions of the Castello, the crystal-clear sea of the Poetto beach, the San Benedetto market with its redevelopment project, and them, “sa genti arrubia”, aka the red people: a colony of pink flamingos that have been nesting for decades in the Molentargius-Saline Natural Park, a stone's throw from the centre. Here are the places not to be missed on a tour of discovery in the Sardinian capital, where gastronomy is tied to its roots but knows how to surprise the curious.
Where to eat in Cagliari
Bombas Hamburgeria Sarda
Panineria. The bread is made in-house, the meat comes from the best island farms, the other ingredients are superbly selected and the combinations give it that touch that makes it one of the best burger joints in town.
Bombas Hamburgeria Sarda – via Università, 37 – 070 753451 – Pagina Facebook
Dal Corsaro
Restaurant. Stefano Deidda works on his path of innovation and research in the family restaurant. Past experiences mark the way, but are influenced by ingredients and recipes from the island. There are only two tastings: let them guide you. For those seeking more simplicity there is the Fork Easy Gourmet next door, this year in a new guise.
Dal Corsaro – viale Regina Margherita, 28 – 070 664318 – stefanodeidda.it
CUCINA.eat
Bistro. A speciality larder, tool and accessory shop, bookshop, but also a venue for courses and tastings. The menu is constructed daily according to the market, the dishes are one more intriguing than the next. Beautiful ambience, convivial atmosphere.
CUCINA.eat – piazza G. Galilei, 1 – 070 0991098 – shopcucina.it
Framento
Pizzeria. Here, in order to guarantee the high standard, it is not possible to change the ingredients topping the pies and this is not a problem: they are designed to have the best balance of ingredients used. The dough made with sourdough starter and select flours gives a crispy bite and soft inside. To drink, artisanal wines and many beers.
Framento – c.so Vittorio Emanuele II, 82 – 070 6670370 – dijef.com
Impasto
Pizzeria. Fresh pasta, pizza and bread, all made from a calibrated mix of flour, yeast and water. In business since 2018, it is a must for all lovers of the carbohydrate, declined in many variations. Plus craft beers and wines. Attentive and attentive service.
Impasto - via Savoia,4 - 070 653321 - impasto.me
Josto
Restaurant. Dim lights, vinyl music, open kitchen. This is Pierluigi Fais's restaurant (same ownership as Framento). A wine bar ambience and a solid restaurant proposal, innovative yes but resting on solid foundations of sustainability, tradition and culture.
Josto – via Sassari, 25 – 070 3510722 – dijef.com
Lillicu
Trattoria. In the Marina district, near the harbour, run by the Zucca family for several generations, this is a solid outpost of traditional cuisine. In an ambience of rustic simplicity or outdoors, you can enjoy tasty, authentic dishes according to the market. House wine or Sardinian labels to accompany.
Lillicu – via Sardegna, 78 – 070 652970 – trattoria.cagliari.it
Locanda dei Buoni e dei Cattivi
Trattoria. It is part of a project of the Domus de Luna non-profit organisation that aims to employ young people and mothers in financial difficulty. On the table come dishes that well interpret tradition and the territory with good ingredients. Rooms for rent available.
Locanda dei Buoni e dei Cattivi – via Vittorio Veneto, 96 – 345 4419347 – buoniecattivi.it
Da Marino al St. Remy
Restaurant. Marino Cogoni is a gracious and classy host. His partner Silvana Sardu, on the other hand, is in the kitchen, the author of Italian classics - mostly seafood - with a contemporary touch and based on high quality ingredients. The food is very good.
Da Marino al St. Remy – via Torino, 16 – 070 657377 – stremy.it
Oyster
Wine Bar. An ideal place for a raw fish aperitif. It starts with different types of oysters, but also with scampi, red prawns or tartare. It continues with crustaceans freshly caught from the aquarium, hot dishes and something earthy. To drink, you are spoilt for choice, with many suggestions by the glass.
Oyster – via Sardegna, 30 – 070 657987 – Pagina Facebook
Luigi Pomata
Restaurant. Luigi Pomata is an institution in the city. His is a restaurant that manages to cater large numbers with high quality, of bringing together adults and young people, gourmets and customers in search of conviviality. The menu is extensive, mostly seafood. The wine list is extensive and not trivial.
Luigi Pomata – v.le Regina Margherita, 18 – 070 672058 – luigipomata.com
I Sarti del Gusto
Restaurant. Attractive setting with a few tables and a delightful outdoor area. The proposal is multifaceted, from breakfast to a quick lunch to dinner, a fun cuisine that combines flair and technique with local ingredients. Well-stocked wine list.
I Sarti del Gusto – vico II V. Sulis, 1/a – 070 6848548 – Pagina Facebook
Taquito
Street Food. At this taqueria, quality local and seasonal ingredients are used. After a few entradas like guacamole and totopos you move on to tacos: pork and pineapple, stewed octopus, tongue and salsa verde, yucateca chicken. Young and modern ambience.
Taquito – via D. A. Azuni, 94 – 351 3881862 – taquitocagliari.it
by Clara Barra e Valentina Marino