Where to eat in Cinque Terre. The best addresses chosen by Gambero Rosso

Riomaggiore, Vernazza, and Monterosso with the hamlets of Corniglia and Manarola: in total five villages overlooking a spectacular sea in a stretch of Ligurian coast that includes part of the province of La Spezia and since 1997 has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site as a "cultural landscape" for its enchanting scenery.

The three municipalities plus two hamlets that make up Cinque Terre were fishing villages perched on rugged cliffs, with lush countryside behind and crystal-clear sea in front. The flood of 2011 caused considerable damage to the area, but the reconstruction of roads and trails - like the spectacular Sentiero Azzurro, of which the famous Via dell'Amore is a part, which should be completely reopened by summer 2024 - and the restoration of transportation routes (from Levanto, for example, it's a three-minute train ride, from Portovenere you can take a boat) have reopened the doors to copious tourist flows.

The area is a favorite destination for Milanese, but also for visitors from all over the world. After all, there are not only enchanting landscapes and sea views, but also a "border" cuisine between the Ligurian Levant and the northern Tuscan coast that leverages a rich basket of products (Monterosso anchovies among the most renowned) and recipes ranging from pasta with pesto to cappon magro, to mention the most mainstream. The catering industry, for its part, despite the inevitable percentage of tourist traps and not-so-popular prices, holds up well, also in terms of the variety of offerings. Here are a series of addresses to keep in mind for a summer seaside escape, the best time to enjoy scenery and food in peace and tranquility.

Where to eat in Cinque Terre

Corniglia

At Cantina De Mananan

Wine Bar. A characteristic old-style tavern in atmosphere and conviviality. You can also sit at communal tables (very simple setting) or at the counter, surrounded by prints and memorabilia. The cuisine is very simple, traditional, with options like pesto and anchovies not lacking, nor are carnivorous options, while the wine selection provides satisfaction. Alert service, without formality.

A Cantina De Mananan - via Fieschi, 117 - 0187 821166 - Facebook

Manarola

Cappun Magro

Bistro. Located near the village church, it's a delightful spot, ideal for a tasty and informal stop, gastronomy style. Few seats, but there is a lovely outdoor space. The menu features a few daily dishes based on market availability, and tasty "marine" sandwiches well stuffed. If you want to taste the cappun magro, a typical specialty that gives the restaurant its name, booking is mandatory. Various food specialties are also available for purchase.

Cappun Magro Bistrot - via Riccobaldi, 1 - 0187 760057 - Instagram

Nessun Dorma

Bistro. Perched on the sea, with a spectacular view, it's an unmissable pit stop where you can refresh yourself with bruschetta, charcuterie and cheese platters, salads, and daily specials. Plus, "pesto experience" courses, boat trips, wine tastings at the property's wine shop downtown, and equally enjoyable stops at Officina 231, under the same management, on Via Discovolo 231. Download the app to avoid the - long - queue.

Nessun Dorma - loc. Punta Bonfiglio - 340 8884133 - it.nessundormacinqueterre.com

La Regina di Manarola

Restaurant. This colorful place is also a pizzeria and cocktail bar, where the table is set with hand-decorated dishes and there is a terrace with a pergola and splendid view. Born in June 2021 by the initiative of a former footballer with a passion for food (same ownership as the restaurant in La Spezia Viva La Vida), it's trendy enough but not lacking in substance. The menu shows a certain dose of creativity and interesting ideas, with well-chosen raw materials, from the tricolor caprese to the seafood carpaccio with citrus, from the "giro giro tonno" to various types of pizzas (brief cooking in an electric oven and toppings with fiordilatte from Agerola, Sant’Ilario ham, and buffalo mozzarella, among others). Wine and cocktail pairing.

La Regina di Manarola - via Ettore Cozzani, 25 - 0187 1891865 - lareginadimanarola.it

Monterosso al Mare

L'Ancora della Tortuga

Restaurant. Established in 2007, it's worth a visit just for its spectacular location, nestled in the cliff, overlooking the sea. But here, the food is also good, with typical Ligurian dishes, fish-based proposals dictated by the daily market, and land options. All accompanied by a focused wine selection. Cozy interiors, fantastic outdoor space (especially the corner with the table). Booking in advance is recommended.

L'Ancora della Tortuga - salita Frati Cappuccini, 4 - 0187 800065 - ristorantetortuga.it

Buranco

Agriturismo. Not on the sea but a short walk from the coast, it's a hospitality structure immersed in the greenery of the immediate hinterland, among vineyards and woods. Three rooms for hospitality and a restaurant of traditional cuisine but elaborated with a certain amount of sophistication complete the offer: Monterosso anchovies in all ways, seafood carbonara, Acquerello risotto with red shrimp and self-produced organic lemons, fried seafood plus some meat proposals. Company wines and honey, jams, oil, and homemade spirits.

Buranco - via Buranco, 72 - 0187 817677 - burancocinqueterre.it

Ciak

Restaurant. Octopus salad, stuffed mussels, stuffed fried anchovies, squid ink risotto, spaghetti Ciak (mussels, clams, tomato, Taggiasca olives), classic fish prepared grilled or baked. Ciak is a reference point in the town, in the historic center, maintaining a good level of quality without too many tourist compromises. The wine cellar allows for suitable food pairing.

Ciak - p.zza Don Giovanni Minzoni, 6 - 0187 817014 - ristoranteciak.net

Miky

Restaurant. A must-visit in the largest and most touristy town of the Cinque Terre. Family-run, on the waterfront, loved by locals and tourists. While the classics - Monterosso-style anchovies above all - are a sure bet, the creative touches deserve a taste. For more informal pit stops, there's La Cantina di Miky, at 90 Civic.

Miky - via Fegina, 104 - 0187 817608 - ristorantemiky.it

Riomaggiore

At Pié de Ma

Bistro. In summer 2024, the entire "Via dell'Amore," part of the Sentiero Azzurro and among the most suggestive scenic routes of Cinque Terre, should finally reopen, with the first section (almost 200 meters) already made accessible since June 2023. Pié de Ma is a café/bistro open from 11 am until late that is located right at the beginning, with a terrace with a breathtaking view. The place itself is very pleasant for a relaxing break: local wines and express cuisine (faster at lunch) and locally inspired, so with lots of fish and vegetables). Reservations are not accepted but worth the queue.

A Pié de Ma - via dell’ Amore, 55 - 0187 921037 - apiedema.it

Rio Bistrot

Bistro. A safe harbor for a refreshing break for the stomach and spirit thanks to its location, near the marina, and the beautiful view from the terrace. Even indoors is comfortable, with a charming and well-kept atmosphere and young, empathetic, and efficient service. Naturally, seafood dominates the table, with a menu that leverages locally sourced top-quality fish treated at its best to enhance its characteristics with a personal touch that fits well. Examples? Black cappellacci with monkfish, parsley sauce, black cabbage, and herring or lobster ravioli and burrata with celery root cream, raw shrimp, and shrimp powder. Among desserts, cocoa tartlet, hazelnut gelato "King of the Woods," pear gel. Meat options and a nice wine selection are available.

Rio Bistrot - via San Giacomo, 10 - 0187 920616 - Instagram

Vernazza

Hambu

Sandwich Shop. Open for a couple of seasons, a bit hidden, it's a colorful and cheerful place to keep in mind if you crave a generously filled hamburger (or sandwiches) and even original variations. There's something for everyone on the menu, even for vegetarians and vegans: from the classic with beef, buffalo mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, Ligurian pesto, salad, crispy onions, and grilled eggplants to the Manarola fish sandwiches with shrimp, zucchini chips, peppers, valerian mayonnaise, and tomatoes, plus focaccias, bruschettas, salads, and fried foods.

Hambu - p.zza Marconi, 22 - 348 8840529 - hambu.eu

Pippo a Vernazza

Street Food. Trofie with pesto, stuffed flatbreads, variously filled sandwiches, "our way" cod, all written on a blackboard and to take away in a totally plastic-free package (adopted since opening in 2028). Drink beer and whites from Cinque Terre. Smiling and easy-going staff, beers and drinks, rooms for those who want to treat themselves to a short vacation.

Pippo a Vernazza - via Gavino, 28 - 392 0499564 - pippoavernazza.com