Lecce is one of the most gorgeous cities in Puglia, and we could say in Italy, one that has been experiencing a happy renaissance for a few years now. Deservedly, we would say, for its unique beauty, among narrow streets and large, busy squares, decorated with refined stone embroidery, “u liccisu”. The baroque architecture, and good food are two powerful magnets, drawing tourists from Italy and the world, in search of beauty and authenticity.
Despite the influx of tourists, Lecce has not lost its Salento soul, on the contrary, it has strengthened it, with important restoration and recovery work, assuring it new strength and most importantly, a future. Not easy to reach compared to the rest of the Puglia region, further south than the rest, a gateway to that Salento that bravely pushes itself amid two seas and its winds.
The best restaurants in Lecce
Caffè storico Alvino
We start from Piazza Sant'Oronzo, the city's landmark, distinguished by the presence of the beautiful Roman amphitheatre that occupies much of it. Everyone usually meets here and it’s a ritual to stop at the historic Caffè Alvino, where Lecce personalities from the worlds of culture, politics and business used to meet. But also the families who still want to rediscover the goodness of home, both sweet and savoury, seated at tables overlooking the amphitheatre. People come at any time of the day, to have breakfast with Lecce sweets, and here the king is the pasticciotto, often followed by almond-flavoured coffee on ice. One can stop here for an aperitivo, as well as for lunch or dinner, or for a snack, based on puccia, slices of pizza, sfogliata leccese (puff pastry from Lecce) stuffed with cheese and vegetables, or panzerotto (stuffed “pizza fritta”).
Caffè storico Alvino - Piazza Sant'Oronzo, 30 – Facebook
Bros
For an innovative, surprising experience, the destination is at Bros, owned by Floriano Pellegrino and Isabella Potì - always in the Piazza Sant'Oronzo’s neighborhood. The deep Salento soul constantly dialogues with contemporaneity and the desire to play accross food, and its complex language. It tickles the mind and gratifies the palate, through two tasting menus, following paths made of decisive, unusual flavours, made solid thanks to the full mastery of technique. People increasingly flock to Lecce to discover, or try again, the cuisine at Bros.
Bros - Via degli Acaya, 2 – pellegrinobrothers.it
RED Restaurant
Dining in the lavish and beautiful Banco di Napoli building brings together the surprise of discovering this important place for the Salento city, which had long fallen into oblivion, and the fine cuisine of Ristorante RED. A long and respectful restoration has given new life to the building, which has become the boutique hotel Palazzo Bn, a hotel with 16 suites, all overlooking Lecce. As soon as you enter the lobby, one can notice the open kitchen, behind the reception. At the stove is Simone De Siato, a native of Salento, with a refined, contemporary take on the flavours “dellu Salentu”. You can order à la carte, or follow the tasting menu. In both cases, Simone is a fine interpreter of signature cuisine, without overdoing it, professionally confirming a personal style that is consistent with the territory. Taste remains the main character, never disappointing, dish after dish.
RED Restaurant - Via XXV Luglio, 13/A – palazzobn.com
Buonifico
In addition to the fine dining Red, the chef also runs Buonifico, a wholesome trattoria with traditional Salento dishes. The hotel definitely wanted to open itself to the city, as well as to world travellers. Therefore the restaurants, as well as the cocktail bar, and breakfast, are open to outside guests too.
Buonifico - Via XXV Luglio, 13/A – palazzobn.com
Primo Restaurant
Primo restaurant is just outside the walls of the old city centre, anyway staying in town. It’s the alter ego of Solaika Marrocco, the young Salento chef. Few tables, very intimate dining room, elegant and with a nice service. To get in tune with the contemporary touch of a profoundly Salentine soul, it is best to choose the chef's free-hand menu. So we will try her “proverbiali turcinieddi”, the lamb innard rolls, glazed in beer with orange onion compote, and then an aubergine parmigiana with a very personal interpretation, nailed to perfection.
Primo Restaurant - Via 47 Reggimento Fanteria, 7 - primorestaurant.it
(cover photo from Primo Restaurant)
Alle Due Corti
If you are looking for a traditional trattoria, Alle Due Corti, owned by Giorgio and Marinella Grassi, is the right place, with a menu written in Salento and handmade pasta. A historic trattoria, where you can enjoy traditional dishes, mostly “di terra”: cream of broad beans with chicory, the very old “lagane e ceci”, “orecchiette con le cime di rapa”, the wonderful aubergine cucole (meatballs), lasagna ncannulata, lamb with onions.
Alle Due Corti - Corte dei Giugni, 1 - Facebook
by Marina Alajmo