Where to Eat in Parma: the 10 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso

Recognised as a UNESCO Creative City for gastronomy, Parma is not only a city known for good food but also for the good life. On the food front, it boasts a choice of excellence that is envy-inducing: Parmigiano Reggiano, Parma ham, culatello di Zibello, Felino salami, and Borgotaro mushrooms. Not to mention the specialties of the table, such as fried gnocco fritto, stuffed pastas like cappelletti or anolini in meat broth - a specialty during the Christmas holidays - tortelli d’erbetta - a favourite of the late master Gualtiero Marchesi - and slow-cooked meats. It's also a hub for innovation, research, and education: home to the EFSA (European Food Safety Agency) and Alma, the international culinary school based in Colorno.

As an ancient seat of learning, Parma is a fascinating place for art, architecture, and opera. It was the Capital of Culture for 2020-21 and until December hosts the Reggio Parma Festival 2023, a festival of theatre, dance, opera, music, cinema, visual arts, and meetings. But that's not all: the Emilia capital is also an ideal starting point for cycling itineraries in the surrounding hilly areas, discovering a territory of immeasurable richness and numerous producers of excellent goods from the province. In the city, dining options are eclectic: tradition sets the rule, but there are also fine dining experiences with contemporary and experimental cuisines, as well as more casual and approachable places with a multifaceted offering. Here are the top 10 addresses - featuring 5 new entries and one of the best trattorias in Italy awarded with Tre Gamberi - for the Ristoranti d’Italia 2024 guide.

Where to eat in Parma

Borgo 20

Bistro. A small, simple, and modern establishment in a charming village next to the Baptistery and the Cathedral. The cuisine is contemporary, blending tradition with technique and creativity. Don't miss the 30-month-aged Parma ham, the potato gnocchi with nettles and snails, and the typical “cavall pisst” (horse pesto), which is a horse meat tartare dressed with Dijon mustard and capers. The traditional menu costs 28 euros for three courses. In the cellar, well-curated labels and a good selection of craft beers. The service is young and informal.

Borgo 20 - b.go XX Marzo, 14 - 0521 234565 - borgo20.it

Brisla

Ristorante. It's a new entry in the Ristoranti d’Italia 2024 guide. Brisla means “crumb” in the Parma dialect, and it is precisely the intimate connection with the territory that Elia Otgianu emphasises, reinterpreting tradition with his youthful sensibility. The venue is warm and comfortable, with exposed beams and divided into two small rooms. The service, all-female, is courteous and professional. The menu follows the seasons and, above all, the market: on Thursdays, there are snails and frogs, on Fridays, only fish is cooked (based on the catch), and on Sundays for lunch, there are boiled meats with various homemade sauces. Among carefully selected cold cuts, anolini in broth, leek, potato and truffle tortelli, and “nervetti” salad, there's already a “must-try” dish: the rice bomb with pigeon ragout - crispy on the outside, soft inside, and perfectly cooked. The wine list is concise but will expand.

Brisla - s.da Luigi Carlo Farini, 41/a - 0521 885619 - brislaparma.com

Cocchi

Restaurant. Open since 1925, Cocchi is the restaurant of the Parma bourgeoisie and a faithful guardian of the gastronomic orthodoxy of the “food valley.” In its halls of neat classicism, you can enjoy a wide variety of cold cuts, each one tastier than the last, served with fried bread. Anolini in broth, the trio of tortelli, and the savarin di riso are meticulously prepared. In winter, there's a focus on boiled meats, while the stuffed veal tip alla parmigiana is worth a try. A sweet ending with a slice of Duchessa cake. A fine wine list celebrating the local region and the finest areas of Italy, along with a professional service that's somewhat old-fashioned in manner and customs.

Cocchi - v.le A. Gramsci, 16a - 0521 981990 - ristorantecocchi.it

Cortex Bistrot

Bistro. Another novelty in the guide, it's a modern place to have fun with a skillfully balanced fusion touch. Sant'Ilario 30-month-aged Prosciutto or Anselmo Bocchi's salami accompanied by chutney, wild boar pappardelle “sweetened” with a hint of prunes, snails playfully mingling with shiitake mushrooms, chickpeas, and 'nduja, white chocolate receiving the exotic kiss of mango and coconut. Cortex hosts in a dynamic, youthful environment, with a friendly welcome and expertise in recommending one of the various wines from the artisanal galaxy between Italy and France present in the cellar. The option to have dishes in “smaller” format is clever. Reservation recommended.

Cortex Bistrot - b.go del Correggio, 20/b - 0521 062846 - cortexbistrot.com

Ai Due Platani

Trattoria. It's not easy to define the concept of a contemporary trattoria - one that naturally suits Italy (almost) effortlessly. However, Ai Due Platani is undoubtedly a daily manifesto of many ideal characteristics (as well as being awarded Tre Gamberi in the guide): competence and knowledge of the craft, a culture deeply rooted in the territory and its history (not necessarily being from the area: the owner is from Mantua); absolute respect for the quality and freshness of ingredients. Lastly, there's attention to price, accessible to all. This explains the timeless success of this establishment in a fraction of Parma, which doesn't just play the part of a trattoria but impeccably embodies it. Furthermore, it boasts a local, national, and French cellar that brings happiness. But most importantly, there are the herb-filled tortelli, the middle ground between the two poles around which the menu revolves: cold cuts with fried bread and the monumental cream gelato, served from the cart with a sea of toppings. There are ever-changing stuffed pastas, eel and sturgeon prepared in various recipes, even noble meats prepared with class and intense flavour. Besides, when taking a break from the nearby ALMA, Gualtiero Marchesi would sit in the small room, often alone, and after sampling a slice of coppa, he would enjoy a trio of herb-filled tortelli. Reservations are advised, well in advance.

Ai Due Platani - fraz. Coloreto - s.da Budellungo, 104a - 0521 645626 - aidueplatani.com

Inkiostro

Restaurant. It wasn't easy to breathe new life into the Inkiostro restaurant that had Terry Giacomello at the helm for years - incidentally, he recently earned a star at his NIN - known for his decidedly experimental cuisine. Salvatore Morello, a young chef with an impressive track record at some of Europe's finest tables, was needed to restore a refined haute cuisine venue to the Parma scene. He aims not to provoke but to satisfy with a cuisine rooted in classic style, subtly infused with evident influences from the Far East. His dishes rely on precious ingredients, elegant contrasts, and precise cooking techniques. To get a taste of his skills, one should try his imaginative risottos, game meats, or high-quality seafood. The wine cellar and high-level selection of spirits match the precision and professionalism of the service.

Inkiostro - via San Leonardo, 124 - 0521 776047 - ristoranteinkiostro.it

La Maison du Gourmet

Restaurant. The establishment led by Martina Chianese (sommelier) and Benedetto Crasta (front of house) is tastefully decorated in a contemporary style. Tables are well spaced for a sense of intimacy, offering expansive windows overlooking the surrounding countryside and breathtaking sunsets, best enjoyed in the outdoor area during the warmer seasons. It presents a creative cuisine with an à la carte menu featuring both meat and fish dishes, as well as two tasting menus (the local menu at 56 euros; the fish menu at 64 euros). Worth trying among the first courses is “la Norma nel tortello,” an explosion of flavours in a bonbon of fresh pasta, and as a main dish, the black Parma pig. The “egg in the woods” is a visually stunning and indulgent dessert. The wine list isn't extensive but well-curated. The attentive and courteous waitstaff ensures attention to detail. It's a new entry in the Restaurants of Italy Guide 2024.

La Maison du Gourmet - fraz. Coloreto - s.da Budellungo, 96 - 0521 645310 -  lamaisondugourmet.it

Officina Alimentare Dedicata

Bistro. Located in the city centre, it's a new cuisine project that relies on organic ingredients, small productions, and dishes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. It's a lively venue, flexible with its hours, offering a variety of cold cuts and cheeses to accompany an aperitif or as a prelude to a meal. Despite reworking the “caval pisst” into a sandwich, between rice bombs and slow-cooked “anolini” or “passatelli” in broth, the reinterpretation doesn't seem iconoclastic. Always prioritising comfort, the mains range from veal with tuna sauce, buffalo meat tartare, to glazed pork belly. Delicious desserts complement the meal. The service is attentive and friendly, especially when suggesting a wine from a cellar that, while not monothematic, favours the organic and natural segment of Italian wines.

Officina Alimentare Dedicata - via F. Maestri, 11a - 0521 230505 - officinaalimentarededicata.it

Soj - Vino e Cucina

Bistro. Another new entry in the guide, is it a place that 'gives up' waiters? Thanks to the compact size of the dining area, the open kitchen (with a couple of tables overlooking the stoves), a significant spirit of dedication, the two young protagonists of Soj, Federico Capocasa and Eugenio Restivo, churn out and serve dishes continuously using local ingredients (duck, horse, snails, deer, sea fish, but also freshwater char) and seasonal vegetables crafted through a mix of various cooking techniques, from beloved stuffed fresh pastas to ramen or BBQ. The wine cellar is dedicated to small organic and natural productions. As you might imagine, the atmosphere is familiar and carefree. Always advisable to make a reservation.

Soj - Vino e Cucina - b.go del Parmigianino, 26 ang. via Cavallotti - 320 2644207 - Facebook

Osteria Virgilio

Trattoria. An osteria located in Oltretorrente, a historic district of the city, once a protagonist in a rebellion. The same intolerance for trends and the mainstream is evident in the host, a supporter of niches and sought-after quality. The place has few tables (booking recommended!) and showcases a counter displaying carefully selected wines and cold cuts. A small board displays the daily specials in a concise list that navigates between tradition and light modernity. Trying the platter of cold cuts is a must, followed by the flavorful and delightful “anolini” in broth. For those devoted to the most faithful tradition, don't miss the “cavallo pesto” with roasted potatoes. The wine list is predominantly natural wines. The service is empathetic, true to the spirit of an osteria.

Osteria Virgilio - s.da G. Inzani, 3b - 0521 1999966 - osteriavirgilioparma.wordpress.com