Where to eat in Siena during the Palio: the 8 best places selected by Gambero Rosso

With its spectacular historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Siena has its own unique charm waiting to be discovered. The city is filled with ancient palaces, monuments, and churches, and it sits in one of Italy's most prestigious wine-producing areas. The food scene offers plenty of tradition, along with delightful fusions. Here are the 8 best places to eat during the Palio.

Where to eat in Siena during the Palio

Antica Salumeria Salvini

It truly is ancient—the oldest in the city—enthusiastically and professionally run by the Ciofi family for years. People come here to fill their shopping bags with various delicacies, partly their own production, but also for a tasty and relaxing break in the attached osteria with a few tables. Don't miss the platter of cold cuts and cheeses, but the menu also offers flavorful and tempting dishes ideal for a snack or an aperitif. The wine selection is also notable, with hundreds of options by the glass, focusing on Super Tuscans and sparkling wines from beyond the Alps.

Antica Salumeria Salvini – s.s. 73 Ponente, 46 – 0577 394399 – www.anticasalumeriasalvini.com

Campo Cedro

Located in the center but slightly off the tourist paths, this is the restaurant of Kohsuke Sugihara, a Japanese chef who has been in Siena for several years with significant experience. The cleanliness and simplicity of the dining room and the summer terrace are matched by the freshness and balance of the dishes. Try the veal tail and tongue terrine with provolone and turnips; rabbit ravioli with tarragon pesto, snap peas, and smoked provola; or the croaker in a puffed rice crust with seaweed sauce. Interesting tasting menus are available at €45 and €70. Well-structured wine list.

Campo Cedro – via Pian d’Ovile, 54 – 0577 236027 – www.campocedro.com

Osteria Le Logge

A charming place that has retained the appearance of the grocery store that once occupied these walls. Here, the passion for wine (owner Gianni Brunelli successfully produces it in Montalcino) happily coexists with the love of good food, which is dedicated to the work in the open kitchen of chef Nico Atrigna. The dishes are centered around typical Tuscan flavors, especially traditional preparations, complemented by well-calibrated creativity that doesn't shy away from seafood. The extensive and excellent wine cellar goes well beyond the already great house wines.

Osteria Le Logge – via del Porrione, 33 – 0577 48013 – www.osterialelogge.it

Particolare di Siena

Marco Gagliardi turned his passion into a job, transforming a property of his into a contemporary-style restaurant within the city walls, complete with a small garden for summer evenings. The close-knit kitchen team offers fresh and innovative dishes, both from the sea and the land: two tasting menus, 4 courses for €60, and 6 for €80. Must-try dishes include cuttlefish with bread, herbs, aubergine, burrata, and aglione, or the slow-cooked pork shank with Jerusalem artichokes, spices, green apple, and Vin Santo sauce. Good wine list with selections from outside the region as well.

Particolare di Siena – via B. Peruzzi, 26 – 339 8275430 – www.particolaredisiena.com

Permalico

Near the Duomo, this very welcoming osteria, with stone walls and wooden tables and furnishings, is run by Armando Ballerini, owner, host, and the soul of the place. The search for raw materials is taken seriously here, relying only on trusted local suppliers, while the vegetables and greens come from a social garden. Some dishes to try: crostone with butter and anchovies and boiled egg, Permalico's pici (handmade and dressed with egg, Tuscan pecorino, and pancetta), tagliatelle with Cinta Senese ragù, pork liver, tripe, tiramisu. The wine cellar offers Tuscan and national references.

Permalico – via Costa Larga, 4 – 0577 41105 – www.permalico.it

Pizzeria Poppi Ivano

Whether you crave a freshly baked ciaccino (a typical local focaccia) filled with cooked ham and melting mozzarella or a slice of pizza with all the classic toppings, this place in the heart of the city—right behind Piazza del Campo—has been a reliable destination for years. The locals have made it an institution, and tourists discover it, tempted by the fragrance of the products displayed on the counter in large trays that empty quickly. For vegetarians, the ciaccino with vegetables is a must.

Permalico – via Costa Larga, 4 – 0577 41105 – www.permalico.it

Salefino Vino&Cucina

A delightful spot where good taste reigns, perfect for buying delicious items, enjoying a simple snack, or having a more substantial meal. The menu is not conventionally divided into courses (starters, mains, etc.) but ranges from gourmet sandwiches to elaborate dishes made with quality ingredients. Paired with well-selected wines, with daily specials written on a blackboard. Owned by the same people as Bottiglieria Salefino (Piazza del Sale, 3 – tel. 0577 44685), a lovely place ideal for an aperitif or a cocktail.

Salefino Vino&Cucina – via degli Umiliati, 1 – 0577 287224 – www.salefino-siena.com

Trefilari

Not far from the Rectorate Palace of the University, it is one of the most interesting places in the city. The culinary philosophy is expressed in captivating and judiciously creative dishes that satisfy both the eyes and the palate. Examples: amberjack ceviche, anchovy colatura crumble, and mint-lime foam; pici with Cinta Senese ragù, Chianti Classico reduction, and burnt onions; pigeon, beetroot, berries, and almonds; squid stuffed with mortadella, chard, and squid ink. Excellent coffee at the end of the meal, with a wine list featuring over 400 labels. Tasting menus at €40 and €60.

Trefilari – via di Pantaneto, 32 – 0577 1657343 – www.restaurant.trefilari.it