Where to eat in Testaccio, the best addresses in the popular district of Rome

In Roman times, given the proximity of the Porto Fluviale, more than 50 million amphorae were stacked there, forming the Monte dei Cocci over the centuries. From a working-class neighborhood in the 19th century, with the creation of the slaughterhouse (disused in the 1970s, now an exhibition space), it has become the heart of the Capital's nightlife. Today, it is frequented more for its traditional cuisine, especially linked to the "fifth quarter," among timeless signs like Augustarello and Remo, and new formats.

At the edge of the neighborhood, the Pyramid of Cestius, Porta San Paolo, and the non-Catholic cemetery act as tourist attractions. In the square, you can stop to chat with passersby, and the Covered Market, despite moving from its original location and a format renewal, is still the heart of daily shopping.

Where to eat in Testaccio

Acquasanta

Eating good seafood in Rome is not an easy task, especially in Testaccio, known as the "carnivorous" district par excellence. However, Enrico Camponeschi succeeds in combining a popular but high-quality proposal in an environment of refined elegance. The seafood comes in part from Anzio and is processed with respect and contemporary flair: homemade fettuccine with fish stock and 'nduja, marinated cuttlefish with pink pepper and celery; monkfish crepinettes with sugar snap peas and plum ketchup. The wine selection is extensive and oriented towards natural wines, with well-thought-out and balanced wine pairings. The desserts by Giulia Fusillo are a guarantee. The service is excellent.

Acquasanta - via A. Manuzio, 28 - acquasantaroma.com

Checchino dal 1887

Undisputed realm of the "fifth quarter," a milestone in Roman cuisine, Checchino has been an institution for over 150 years. Located in Testaccio, one of the most authentic neighborhoods in the Capital, right in front of the historic slaughterhouse, it is a must-visit for those who appreciate tripe, coratella, and the inevitable "padellotto," a mix of all the cuts of the fifth quarter sautéed with rosemary and a splash of vinegar or roasted with salt and pepper. Among the first courses, you'll find classics like carbonara, amatriciana, and cacio e pepe, with the cheese cart always present. The cellar is impressive, located in one of the natural caves of Monte Testaccio. The service is friendly and professional.

Checchino dal 1887 - via di Monte Testaccio, 30 - checchino-dal-1887.com

Collettivo Gastronomico

A beautiful venue, decorated in an industrial style with contemporary art on the walls, nestled in the City of the Other Economy, with the possibility of sitting in the courtyard of the former slaughterhouse in summer. A space for sharing, celebrating the richness and authenticity of the raw materials of the Lazio region, in respect of production ethics, the basis for dishes also inspired by regional tradition. The menu is updated following the seasons and ideas elaborated collectively among kitchen colleagues; events and live music animate some evenings, announced well in advance on the sign's FB page.

Collettivo Gastronomico - l.go D. Frisullo, 1 - facebook.com/collettivogastronomicotestaccio

Felice a Testaccio

Traditional, hearty, and genuine cuisine with a highlight in "cacio e pepe." The oven-baked lamb with potatoes is another must-try dish. The wine list is decent, and the prices are in line with the offerings. Another location in Milan.

Felice a Testaccio - via Mastro Giorgio, 29 – feliceatestaccio.com

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Flavio Di Maio's restaurant is always a safe haven for those craving authentic Roman cuisine faithfully executed, without exaggerations. The rule here is always the same: quality ingredients and careful execution. The carbonara is a must-try, with perfectly cooked pasta, the right creaminess, and crispy bacon without overdoing it. In season, there are Roman artichokes, strictly with garlic and mint, while for fried food enthusiasts, there are boiled meatballs, lamb chops, and a huge breaded slice. The meal ends with simple but well-executed desserts, such as the delicious ricotta and sour cherry tart. The wine list is carefully curated to accommodate all tastes, including natural wine enthusiasts. The service is courteous and efficient, even on chaotic weekends.

Flavio al Velavevodetto - via di Monte Testaccio, 97 - ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Piatto Romano

A simple but noticeable place with a small open kitchen, some touches of color, and an outdoor area on a lively neighborhood street. The menu features a lot of Roman tradition, with classics like cacio e pepe, rigatoni with pajata, lamb chops, and oxtail. Piatto Romano stands out because it also offers excellent vegetable dishes and specialties from other regions, such as Ascolana olives and an excellent tagliolino with fermented black garlic from Voghiera, dressed in a sauce made from vegetable broth. The wine list includes local bottles, as well as bulk Abruzzo whites and reds. The service is friendly, sometimes distracted, but the credit goes to the kitchen and reasonable prices.

Piatto Romano - via G. B. Bodoni, 62 - piattoromano.com

Taverna Volpetti

Adjacent to the famous Volpetti gastronomy in Testaccio, the establishment stands out for its elegant simplicity: the late 19th-century floor carefully restored, the large counter at the back of the room, and the not overly spacious but well-managed spaces. The menu is aligned with the traditional cuisine of our country. Among the first courses, there are Lunigiana testaroli with pesto, green beans, and potatoes, and Castelmagno risotto, for example, but Roman classics are also available. The charcuterie board is sumptuous, showcasing a selection from the shop, and there are excellent vegetarian options, such as oven-baked stuffed artichoke and zucchini flowers with ricotta and bottarga. The dessert menu includes a standout cheesecake with Robiola di Roccaverano and wild strawberries. The drink selection is extensive, including both bottled and tap options, with changes throughout the week. The service is polite.

Taverna Volpetti - via A. Volta, 8 - www.tavernavolpetti.it

Vinificio

The formula is flexible; you come here for an informal aperitif or dinner, choosing from a small menu that includes excellent specialties, tray pizzas (try the one with escarole, olives, and salted cod), small and large kitchen dishes (from tuna-flavored friggitelli to breaded chicken thighs). There's a lot of France and Italy in the wine selection—the focus is on natural and artisanal wines—but there's also a look at various lesser-known European productions, from Greece to Portugal. Fun and lively atmosphere, managed by the same team as Pastificio San Lorenzo, in the homonymous district.

Vinificio - p.zza dell'Emporio, 1 - vinificionaturale.it

Testaccio, from breakfast to after dinner

Pasticceria Barberini

It's a mix of tradition and modernity that characterizes the proposal of this establishment dating back to 1925. A well-kept environment with orderly showcases displaying a rich range of miniatures and modern cakes. Also noteworthy are the strawberry tarts and classic cakes, from the well-made Sacher to the Charlotte, with vanilla diplomatic cream, strawberry confit, and fresh fruit. The generous use of sourdough, managed skillfully, is the strength of the leavened pastries, small for breakfast and large for celebrations. Also, they serve ice cream.

Pasticceria Barberini - via Marmorata, 41 - pasticceriabarberini.it

Linari

A real bar-hangout in Testaccio, Linari is now an institution. The true and undisputed attractions of this bar are the irreplaceable red mini-pizzas, very thin, oval-shaped, good at any time of the day. Even in the morning, they are prominently displayed on the counter - including the version with mozzarella - alongside breakfast classics: maritozzi, Italian croissants, donuts, and fried bombs. Linari remains a certainty even in terms of classic pastry, with excellent Montblanc and shortcrust cake with cream and strawberries. For savory breaks, in addition to mini-pizzas, there are good sandwiches, rustic bread, and stuffed focaccias.

Linari - via N. Zabaglia, 9 - pasticcerialinari.com

Tram Depot

At the edge of Testaccio, the kiosk itself is delightful, with its old tram shape, secluded position - although on the busy via Marmorata - at the entrance to a public garden, lights, and tables sheltered by umbrellas. Stop here for a breakfast with carefully crafted coffee - there are several proposals of origins, varieties, and processes - and a selection of pastries and cakes. Then snacks with sandwiches and panini, a small offering of platters and salads for lunch, and on to the aperitif, with a glass of wine or a good cocktail. Same formula for the branch in Talenti, in via Corrado Alvaro, 37.

Tram Depot - via Marmorata, 13 - facebook.com/TramDepotOfficial

Trapizzino

The exponential growth of the format, with the opening over the years of numerous outlets between Rome and other cities (all listed on the website), has not affected the charm and quality of the trapizzino. And so, even here, where everything started, one always returns to taste the pocket of white pizza signed by Stefano Callegari, crispy on the outside and with a crumb that absorbs the generous and tasty condiments. The classic fillings that have made the trapizzino famous are all there, including meatballs in tomato sauce, hunter-style chicken, and eggplant Parmigiana. And then a nice variety of fried foods. The adjacent room is convenient for seating.

Trapizzino - via G. Branca, 88 - trapizzino.it

Angelineria

The newest branch of the historic Angelina restaurant (a Roman cuisine brand with two locations, in Testaccio, adjacent, and in via del Porto Fluviale) is a very well-curated cocktail bar, where you can land from the aperitif to after dinner, from 6:30 pm to 2 am, with excellent drinks prepared by Gianluca Morini, a series of interesting tapas, such as the "maritozzo all'innamorata," or real dishes, both land and sea. Evocative atmosphere.

Angelineria - via Galvani, 24 - ristoranteangelina.it/angelineria

Where to shop in Testaccio

Mercato di Testaccio

Over eleven years ago, when the market was a cluster of stalls in the square of the same name, it would have been difficult to imagine it as a reference point for street food, a place for shopping, and tastings. However, in the structure that has housed it since 2012, this second soul has taken shape and gained more space. However, there is a good coexistence and synergy between the two: for purchases, you can still find a bit of everything, from fruits and vegetables to butchers, fishmongers to the vegan shop, and now the same goes for tastings. Between Tuscan and Calabrian cuisine, pad Thai, and fresh pasta, there is indeed an embarrassment of choice. The rotation of the boxes is constant, but there are fixed points.

The first is undoubtedly Mordi & Vai, the temple of traditional Roman recipes served between two slices of bread, whether it's "coda alla vaccinara," coratella with artichokes, or breaded veal with sautéed chicory. Move to box 22 for the excellent pizza by the slice from CasaManco: high base with crispy edges, irresistible, and lots of fun on the condiment front.

The adjacent box, Rosa Cibo Italiano, is instead a journey to Romagna and a reference for piadina, rolled thin and perfectly cooked, with the option of whole-grain dough and various fillings to choose from (check the blackboard for pleasant surprises). Could fried foods be missing? The answer is at the Food Box, with supplì following Arcangelo Dandini's recipes, pasta frittatas, potato croquettes, Agerola mozzarella in a carriage, and Roman-style artichokes. For events and extraordinary openings, updates are on the market's Instagram page.

Mercato di Testaccio - via A. Manuzio, 66b - instagram.com/mercatoditestaccio

Emporio delle Spezie

Once you step through the blue door of the new location on via Galvani (the move took place in the summer of 2022), you can smell the world: we are probably in the best spice shop in Rome. On the crowded shelves of jars, jars, and containers, aromas, leaves, grains, powders from all over the globe are stored, along with salts, selected varieties of tea, infusions, as well as dried fruit, rice, seeds, legumes, and more. The venue is beautiful, and the welcome is friendly and empathetic.

Emporio delle Spezie - via Galvani, 11 - www.emporiodellespezie.it

Volpetti

A historic gastronomy in the Capital, rightly considered one of the best in the city for the variety and quality of the assortment. Large hams, cured meats from all over Italy, smoked and processed fish, dairy products, and cheeses where all the best excellences of the national and international scene are present. Rich choice of bread, high-level ready-to-eat gastronomy