Where to eat in the Majella park, amidst stunning landscapes and authentic cuisine

A vast plateau at 1,300 metres above sea level, home to one of the most important ski areas in the region. This is the Piana dell'Aremogna, located within the Majella National Park, between Pescocostanzo, Rivisondoli, and Roccaraso.

A gourmet weekend away from overtourism

At the end of January 2025, the "overtourism" debate flared up on social media, sparking numerous controversies. Between alarmism and real issues, let's clear things up by starting with the best places to eat and drink without falling into tourist traps.

22 addresses away from the selfie crowds

Far from the hordes of selfie-takers and Sunday day-trippers, here’s a list of places where the echoes of the crowds are nowhere to be heard. If possible, plan your weekend in the middle of the week, and you can easily avoid even the slightest risk of getting caught in an overtourism jam. Here are "our" recommendations.

PESCOCOSTANZO

La Corniola del Relais Ducale

via dei Mastri Lombardi, 24
0864 642470
Restaurant. At the entrance of one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages, this elegant yet simple eatery takes inspiration from local produce (including two homegrown vegetable gardens) and reinterprets it with modern and refined twists on tradition. Highlights include Pescocostanzo pecorino in tempura with cooked must, tagliolini with Navelli saffron and black truffle (all pasta is homemade), lamb and potatoes, and even some seafood options. The wine cellar ensures a great selection.

Essentia

via Appennini, 22
348 0460844
Restaurant. A modern and well-curated establishment, the brainchild of two young Molise natives who have quickly earned a loyal clientele. Besides homemade bread made with ancient grain flours, the menu features delicious dishes based on local resources: chitarrina with guanciale, pecorino, and egg; cortecce with broccoli and pecorino; slow-cooked pork with chestnuts. Excellent drinks menu, including a fine selection of spirits.

Il Faggeto

loc. Bosco di Sant'Antonio
s.da prov.le 55, km 10
0864 67100
Restaurant. A reliable family-run venue set in a charming natural setting, featuring spacious dining areas (including a cosy room with a fireplace) and a menu that aligns with local traditions and produce. Expect dishes like crostini with mushrooms, polenta pasticciata, ricotta ravioli, mixed roasts, grilled sirloin, and for dessert, nougat semifreddo and tiramisù. Also offers six guest rooms.

Da Paolino

s.da Vulpes, 34
0864 640080
Trattoria. Located in the heart of the village, this long-standing family-run establishment is a stronghold of traditional cuisine. Start with a generous platter of cheeses or cured meats, then move on to fresh handmade pasta (chitarra, fettuccine, taccozzelle, tagliolini, ravioli) with rich seasonal sauces, and expertly prepared meats. House-made desserts like apple tart and tiramisù provide the perfect finish. Reservations are essential, but well worth the wait.

Il Setaccio

via O. Colecchi, 33
331 4200805
Trattoria. Nestled along the steep street leading to the Basilica of Santa Maria del Colle, this small yet charming spot offers authentic local flavours. Seating is limited (reservations are a must), but guests can enjoy simple yet delicious dishes like mushroom ravioli, chitarra with truffle, polenta, scamorza with vegetables, and succulent sausages. Homemade desserts, such as traditional sweets, round out the meal. House wine available.

Di Giacomo

via della Fontana, 3
339 1059622
Bakery. Since 1989, Luciano Di Giacomo and his wife Silvana have run this small biscuit shop with an attached workshop in the town centre. Their specialities include biscuits, tarts, doughnuts, and dry pastries (cantucci, mostaccioli, anicini), but their flagship product is the “pizzella” of Pescocostanzo, made with an old family iron and a dough of eggs, flour, lard, extra virgin olive oil, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, and citrus zest. At Easter, they also prepare the traditional “scarsella” sweet.

Lo Spizzico

c.so Roma, 11
331 2763961
Pizza by the slice. Vittorio Di Padova, a former student at Niko Romito’s Academy, now manages the pizzeria his parents founded 30 years ago. His pizzas are light and highly digestible, thanks to long fermentation times and top-quality ingredients, sometimes combined in creative ways. Even a simple red pizza with burrata, Gargano tomatoes, and basil is worth trying. Call ahead to check opening hours.

RIVISONDOLI

Da Giocondo

via Suffragio, 2
0864 69123
Trattoria. A long-standing local institution, welcoming and full of character, now managed by Elisa Gasbarro, daughter of the historic founder. The menu remains steadfastly rooted in local traditions: cazzarielli with beans, cordicelle with sausage, pancetta, and pecorino, roasted lamb, and fine cheeses. The wine list includes regional and national selections. Attentive service.

Osteria del Tarassaco

p.zza G. Garibaldi, 6
348 7434269
Restaurant. Eight dishes, eight oils, eight wines—this is the offering from Fabio Ferrara, a passionate and knowledgeable host. No menu or wine list (or oil list, for that matter); guests embark on a blind culinary journey featuring the finest Abruzzese and Italian produce, paired exclusively with organic wines, many of them French. An impressive cheese selection adds to this unique experience.

La Portella

via Sulmontina, 44
398 6469372
Trattoria. A simple and rustic place in a lovely location, offering wholesome and hearty cuisine with deeply traditional roots. Cured meats and cheeses are a staple, as well as homemade pasta, soups, grilled meats, and seasonal vegetables as side dishes.

Spazio Rivisondoli

Via Regina Elena, 49
393 4636841
Restaurant. In the venue where the Romito legacy began, there is now a “teaching restaurant” where students from the Castel di Sangro Academy put their theoretical knowledge into practice. They design the menu (marinated trout with purple cabbage and cumin, tagliatelle with a mixed three-meat ragù, savoy cabbage and potato terrine with pumpkin cream) and manage every aspect of the business, including service. Check the website for opening periods.

La Vecchia Pesa

loc. Piano delle Cinque Miglia
s.s. 17 km 133, 500
0864 69132
Trattoria. Located along the road that crosses the Piano delle Cinque Miglia, near the route leading to the ski slopes, this is a simple place where you can enjoy generous home-style cooking. Start with local cured meats and cheeses, followed by grilled scamorza cheese, homemade pasta, polenta, arrosticini, and grilled meats. Friendly and welcoming service, reasonable prices.

Enoteca Enogiò

via Roma, 30
0864 640068
Wine Shop. Just a few steps from the main square, this charming little enoteca boasts a long history. Warm and inviting, with a few tables for those who wish to stop and eat, it offers an interesting selection of wines, mainly from Abruzzo and Molise, along with a variety of regional delicacies and specialities: cured meats, cheeses, honey, jams, and sweets.

Botton d’Oro

via Maria Caniglia 30/32
0864 641971
Patisserie. The most beloved in town, with a loyal following of both locals and regular tourists. The pastries are the result of solid expertise and a predominantly traditional approach, featuring homemade tarts, pralines, petits fours, and classic regional sweets. A well-curated selection of savoury options is also available, along with a carefully managed café section.

Chef Raffaele Trilli of Chichibio in Roccaraso

ROCCARASO

Chichibio

via G. Marcone, 1
328 9054831
Restaurant. A bold venue where research and innovation have long been the focus, yet the cuisine remains accessible and flavour-driven. The cappelletti in double beef broth pay a fine tribute to the local area, while the Carnaroli risotto with stewed pumpkin, blue cheese, and pepper offers a rich and characterful first course. Well-curated wine list and excellent service.

EnoFrank

via Roma, 43
0864 62496/392 6493327
Bistrot. “Wine & Food” is the motto, and indeed, this is the perfect spot for lovers of good food and fine wine paired to perfection. There is an excellent selection of meats, including premium cuts, cheeses, and cured meats, as well as an interesting and unconventional menu (from buffalo ricotta-filled panciotti with pumpkin, hazelnut powder, and speck to Gragnano spaghetti alla Nerano). Cosy atmosphere, friendly staff.

Le Ortensie Restaurant dell’Hotel Le Ortensie

via Roncone, 31
0864 602025
Restaurant. A renowned dining spot in a four-star hotel, a classic mountain-style building located 2 kilometres from the Monte Pratello ski slopes. The cuisine offers plenty of interesting elements, with dishes that are both flavourful and well-balanced: from classic fettuccine Alfredo with Vacche Rosse parmesan and tartare of Abruzzese Manzetta beef to high-quality meats. Regional wines and craft beers available for pairing.

Principessa Giovanna Boutique Chalet

s.da c.le del Macchione
0864 63090
Mountain Lodge. With direct access to the ski slopes, this is the result of the renovation of a 1930s mountain lodge, now transformed into a charming chalet with comfortable rooms, breathtaking panoramic views, and a restaurant open to non-residents as well. A delightful retreat in both winter and summer, offering various activities, including yoga classes.

La Staffa

v.le Napoli, 74
345 6901909
Trattoria. A historic spot, slightly dated and located outside the town centre, but always reliable for a meal featuring hearty, home-style cooking. The service is quick and informal, and the menu includes regional products and specialities such as cheeses, cured meats, homemade fresh pasta, polenta, and grilled meats (including the much-loved arrosticini). Good desserts.

La Trappola

fraz. Pietransieri
via della Pineta, 20
0864 63034
Trattoria. A solid and dependable establishment located in a small hamlet, 9 kilometres from the centre of Roccaraso. Diners can settle into one of two rustic dining rooms to enjoy cured meats, pappardelle with wild boar ragù, cazzarielli with beans, grilled meats, pork shank, and venison with polenta. Alternatively, well-topped thin-crust pizzas are available. The homemade desserts are worth trying, from chocolate cake to cheesecake. The wine cellar focuses on Abruzzese labels. A note: in peak season, double sittings are in operation.

Enoteca Zero

v.le Napoli, 25/C
338 5757345
Wine Bar. A high-quality enoteca in the town centre, carefully designed with a mountain lodge aesthetic and equally well-curated in terms of food and drink. A well-thought-out and interesting selection of wines and sparkling wines, also available by the glass, is complemented by a seasonal, flavourful menu and a selection of fine cured meats and cheeses—perfect for an aperitif. Also noteworthy is the excellent meat selection.

La Fattoria

s.s. 17 km 139
0864 62980
Pizzeria. Classic round pizzas made with traditional dough and topped with high-quality local ingredients, with some creative twists. Options include fiordilatte, Colonnata lard, rocket, aged pecorino cheese, and chestnut honey, or tomato, mozzarella, spinach, sausage, and parmesan. In addition to pizza, the venue also offers a good selection of regional dishes and a well-stocked wine cellar. Gluten-free diners take note: the establishment is AIC-certified. The wine list is well worth exploring.