Where to eat in Trastevere, the historic district of Rome. The definitive guide

The Tiber is the border of the largest district in Rome, called Trans Tiberim, beyond the Tiber, because imperial Rome, instead, developed on the opposite bank (the left one). To delimit Trastevere from Gianicolo and Monteverde, there are the Gianicolensi Walls, which act as an ancient physical border: however, the popular spirit has its heart in the narrow alleys of the medieval city.

Before the construction of the embankments, at the end of the 19th century, to protect the Capital from continuous floods, the Ripa Grande port was the heart of fluvial Rome, among boats, boatmen, goods, and a landscape that no longer exists. However, in the toponymy, the ancient professions and tributes in the squares to the artists who sang Trastevere still exist, from Giuseppe Gioacchino Belli to Trilussa, while a plaque in Via di San Cosimato recalls that the district gave birth to Alberto Sordi.

Armed with comfortable shoes and a spirit of discovery, you can stroll through small squares, picturesque corners, historic buildings, and museums: from the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere to Palazzo Corsini, the surprises will be many. Including gastronomic ones, because despite the average number of tourist venues for alcoholic nightlife, the Trastevere scene has a lot to say, from fine dining – where Cristina Bowerman, against the current, made Glass great – to traditional cuisine.

@Da Enzo

The Best Trattorias in Trastevere

Checco er Carettiere

Surrounded by photos of the familiar faces of Dolce Vita, this restaurant continues to serve the generous and convivial Roman cuisine, now approaching its fourth generation. A home-style kitchen marked by popular rituals that include gnocchi on Thursdays or tripe on Saturdays, upheld by a wisdom that avoids excess: the amatriciana is balanced, and the supplì has a light breadcrumb coating with a crispy grain. The artichoke excels in both fried (in extra virgin olive oil) and tagliolino preparations. Some natural wines grace a menu dominated by Lazio labels. Friendly service, beautiful garden (pictured on the cover).

Checco er Carettiere – via Benedetta, 10 – Roma - www.checcoercarettiere.it

Osteria La Gensola

In the less touristy (but equally charming) area of Trastevere, this osteria proudly showcases tradition, with a special focus on seafood. Alongside classic Roman dishes (amatriciana, cacio e pepe, carbonara, oxtail sauce), there's an excellent selection of fish-based dishes: spaghetti with seafood or veracious clams, sea bass ravioli, lampedusan-style amberjack fillet, and licatese-style tuna tagliata. Friendly service.

Osteria La Gensola – p.zza della Gensola, 15 – Roma - osterialagensola.it

Trattoria de Gli Amici

The recent renovation of the venue has made the historic proposal of the Sant'Egidio Community even more welcoming in the beautiful Trastevere square. It combines high-quality dining, mainly focused on classic Roman cuisine, with a social project that involves the employment of people with disabilities, supported by professionals and friends. Start with bruschetta and fried appetizers, then delve into traditional dishes, both from land and sea, accompanied by "pinse" (flatbreads) with tasty toppings, all made with carefully selected local ingredients. Ask the staff for the right wine pairings.

Trattoria de Gli Amici – p.zza di Sant'Egidio, 5 – Roma - trattoriadegliamici.it

@Proloco Trastevere

Proloco Trastevere

Over the years, Proloco Trastevere has become a kind of happy (and peaceful) gastronomic island in one of the city's most touristy neighborhoods. It dedicates space and attention to the excellence of Lazio, especially selected cured meats and cheeses distributed by DOL Di Origine Laziale. Enjoy large boards if you're in the mood for an aperitif or a shared appetizer. Then, substantial dishes like the delicious savoy cabbage flan with pecorino and pepper, or unexpected off-menu options like roasted pumpkin on pumpkin cream with almond shavings. Don't miss the pizza, especially the FF, first fried and then baked. A variety of regional wines and well-crafted classic cocktails are available to drink.

Proloco Trastevere - Via G. Mameli, 23 – Roma - prolocotrastevere.it

Enzo Al 29

In the heart of Trastevere, this historic establishment has become an institution, and the long queues (no reservations) forming in front of number 29 confirm its fame. The menu is a tribute to traditional Roman cuisine, with well-seasoned dishes served in generous portions. Start with the delicious Jewish-style artichokes or zucchini flowers with anchovies. The carbonara and amatriciana are excellent, while the oxtail stew deserves applause for its tenderness and juiciness. Don't miss the homemade desserts, Enzo's tiramisu, or the mascarpone mousse with wild strawberries. House wine is available, but there's also a selection of regional wines and good beer. Rustic and friendly service.

Enzo Al 29 – via dei Vascellari, 29 – Roma - daenzoal29.com

Da Teo

In a delightful square at the edge of the neighborhood, near the river, Da Teo offers solid and substantial cuisine that looks to the city's tradition, seasons, and seafood products. This establishment maintains its reliability for all the classics, served in generous portions, from amatriciana to cacio e pepe, from gricia to carbonara, and artichokes, fritters, and artichokes that pair amiably with various dishes.

Da Teo – p.zza  dei Ponziani, 7a – Roma - facebook.com/Trattoria.da.TEO

La Tavernaccia

A historic restaurant opened in 1968 by Bruno, whose face once adorned the sign. Over the years, it has adapted its proposal of Roman cuisine to modern times without losing the familial character of management or the authenticity of its offerings. The kitchen prepares dishes with sought-after raw materials (suppliers are listed on the menu) inspired by the city and regional recipes, revisiting them, as well as national preparations and flavors. Expect Marchigiano ciauscolo bruschetta and Tuscan crostini as starters, rigatoni all’amatriciana and pappardelle with white boar ragù, oxtail stew, and oven-roasted suckling pig for mains (pizza is also available in the evening, Roman-style, of course). The focus is on natural wines in the cellar. Available and knowledgeable service.

La Tavernaccia – via G. da Castelbolognese, 63 – Roma - www.latavernacciaroma.com

@Glass Hostaria

The Best Restaurants in Trastevere

Glass Hostaria

Perhaps the first true "international" restaurant in Rome, a designer venue in the heart of one of the city's most touristy districts, where nightlife lasts until the morning in all weather and seasons. Many years ago, Cristina Bowerman, originally from Puglia but a citizen of the world, settled among pubs and rustic trattorias to create a very ambitious project of cuisine and contemporary hospitality for the area. If it has reached the pinnacle of the national scene today and is considered one of the top 100 successful women of 2023 by Forbes, it's solely due to her efforts. The team she has built over the years includes a solid staff with a meticulous, refined, and professional restaurant manager and sommelier, Riccardo Nocera.

Glass Hostaria - v.lo del Cinque, 58 – Roma - glasshostaria.it

Antica Pesa

An enviable collection of art in a suggestive environment, offering a grand classic always loved by the jet set and remaining constant over the years. Within these walls, the Panella family management recently celebrated a century of activity in this exclusive venue halfway between Trastevere and Gianicolo, away from the chaos. The cuisine is strongly linked to Lazio's products and gastronomy, highlighted in often satisfying and amusing dishes such as Roman Ramen, based on roast pork and porcini mushrooms, in puntarelle broth with beef meatballs. Not all experiments, however, are successful, especially in desserts. Incredibly extensive wine list.

Antica Pesa – via G. Garibaldi, 18 – Roma - anticapesa.it

Osteria Fernanda

In a secluded and quiet location near Trastevere Station, the beautiful establishment of Davide del Duca, a chef with character, personality, and great taste, offers seasonal and creatively effective dishes. For each period, a different menu, a synthesis of research, contrast, and finding a new balance. Risotto, buffalo milk, sea urchins, and burnt orange; beef, fermented persimmons, Sichuan pepper juice, and coffee oil. The wine list features interesting vintages of great wines at fair markups. The welcome is pleasant and polite, the dining room is well-kept, with soft lights creating an intimate and cozy atmosphere.

Osteria Fernanda – via C. Del Monte, 18 - Roma - osteriafernanda.com

Dalù

An oasis just steps from Isola Tiberina and Lungotevere: a small square where calm and tranquility reign, a warm and welcoming house where you can gather for an aperitif from 6 to 8 pm (for six small tastings plus a cocktail or a glass of wine, 20 euros) or for a relaxing dinner pampered with grace and professionalism. This is the essence of the place that Luana Zamparelli has built in her image and likeness. A proposal attentive to raw materials and seasonality, only caught, no farming or frozen; Roman and Italian traditional dishes with a touch of creativity. Good drinks.

Dalù - via della Gensola, 58a – Roma - ristorantedalu.it

Zia

On the elegant Via Mameli, here's the sign that rises to the top of the creative Roman cuisine scene on the crest of the wave. A well-thought-out and original wine cellar, managed with precision, serves as a counterpoint to the cuisine of Antonio Ziantoni, which is increasingly mature in taste and personality. From oyster with tendons and crucifers to pork belly; from the "disguised" artichoke (presented in giudìa, executed in Roman carpaccio, very successful) to the eel in a beautiful balance of sauces; from giblets ravioli to beef and hazelnuts, and then to the delightful ending (Romanly marked by bomba, cream-filled brioche, and vanilla and sour cherry ice cream), many highlights and no missteps. Confirming a truly happy trend.

Zia – via G. Mameli, 45 – Roma - ziarestaurant.com

@Da Etta

Cuisine, Wines, and Cocktails in Bistros

Da Etta

From the same family as La Buvette (a bistro in via Vittoria 44) and other excellent venues in the center, here's a new sign that opened in spring 2023 with all the credentials: wide hours, spaces (communicating) dedicated to the café, lunch, mixing with the cocktail bar, and dinner. The restaurant offers a menu of carefully crafted classic Italian and Roman dishes, with interesting daily specials: Roman-style artichoke, roasted porcini mushrooms, butter and Parmesan fettuccine, Black Angus tagliata with potato millefeuille. Each dessert prepared in the in-house laboratory is worth a try. The wine cellar is of a high standard, with a very broad and interesting selection of labels adorning the beautiful venue. The service is cheerful, and outdoor tables are pleasant.

Etta - p.zza in Piscinula, 42 – Roma - dbs-restaurants.com

Jacopa

From here, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the capital, thanks to the large summer terrace where you can enjoy an aperitif or dinner. During the rest of the year, you are in a well-kept room furnished with understated elegance. The seasonal menu is interesting and focused: the cannelloni of fresh pasta filled with ricotta and borage are visually pleasing, as is the lamb skewer with spicy sauce, lettuce, and yogurt. The desserts, always made with great attention, are worth tasting. The aperitif formula is intriguing and delicious, featuring glasses of wine, excellent cocktails, and treats like golden fried anchovies, oxtail bun, liver pâté, and much more. The wine list is centered around natural wines. Courteous service.

Jacopa - via Jacopa de' Settesoli, 7 – Roma – www.jacopa.it

@La Punta Expendio de Agave

International cuisines in Trastevere

Akropolis

In the lively chaos of Trastevere, this establishment has been offering Greek cuisine of good quality for several years. Homemade pita, along with various sauces that come with appetizers, such as tzatziki or taramosalata with fish eggs. The dolmades, vine leaf rolls stuffed with rice, are good, and the fried feta wrapped in kataifi pastry is delicious. The menu continues with a mixed grill of meats or a generous and well-seasoned portion of moussaka. Greek wines and national labels are available to drink. Courteous service.

Akropolis – via San Francesco a Ripa, 104 – Roma - www.akropolistavernagreca.com

Jaipur

A place with a solid reputation and an outdoor seating area in one of the liveliest corners of the neighborhood. The staff kindly explains the delights of a varied cuisine, faithful to traditional Indian recipes, with many specialties cooked in the classic tandoori oven, made of terracotta. The menu is characterized by bold flavors, such as the Jaipuri special murgh, spicy chicken bites with Indian herbs and spices, yogurt, ginger, and garlic, or the Madras curry chicken, from the southern city, in spicy sauce. And of course, many rice options, from Basmati to curry to one with peas and dried fruit, native to Kashmir. You can choose à la carte or opt for the tasting menus – vegetarian and non-vegetarian - for a minimum of 2 people. To conclude, there's a nice selection of typical sweets and ice creams.

Jaipur – via San Francesco a Ripa, 56 – Roma - ristorantejaipur.it

La Punta Expendio de Agave

A reference point in the capital (and in Italy) for everything related to agave culture - starting from mythical distillates like Tequila and Mezcal - thanks to the expertise and field research of Roberto Artusio and Cristian Bugiada. Behind the conception of the entire project, there are two well-known Roman establishments, The Jerry Thomas Project and Freni e Frizioni. Unmissable cocktails, including classics, twists, and signatures, to be accompanied by a fun Mexican cuisine proposal. On the table, excellent tacos, tostadas, but also intriguingly paired tartare and ceviche. In the basement, there's the Maria Sabina, a secret bar.

La Punta Expendio de Agave – via di Santa Cecilia, 8 – Roma - lapuntaexpendiodeagave.com

Somo

A well-kept establishment with a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere where you can enjoy classic Japanese dishes but also indulge in fusion preparations made with taste and the right balance of flavors. On the table, well-executed sushi and sashimi, tempura, and nigiri, contemporary rolls creatively arranged, from one with sea bream and smoked passion fruit with herbs to one with salmon, pistachio, genmaicha tea, and lemon zest. On the 'fusion' side, options range from Black Wagyu tartare with gorgonzola, hazelnuts, and black truffle to green gnocchi, yuzu kosho, and pecorino romano sauce, and oriental-style porchetta chicken, sweet potato BBQ, and black truffle. For drinks, a selection of national wines and some sparkling wines, including some from overseas. Attentive and courteous service.

Somo – via G. Mameli, 5 – Roma - www.somorestaurant.com

@Seu Illuminati

The Best Pizzerias in Trastevere

L'Elementare

In the heart of Trastevere, Mirko Rizzo bakes authentic Roman pizzas, thin and crispy, hand-stretched and cooked in a wood-fired oven. The establishment welcomes guests with a long counter offering more than 25 craft beers. It's impossible to resist the fried specialties, from classic supplì to specials, to delightful fried pizzas like the one filled with mortadella. The menu changes frequently depending on the season. Friendly and relaxed service. Summer location in Parco Appio and another in the Tuscolano district (via Licinio Stolone, 92).

L'Elementare  - via Benedetta, 23 – Roma - pizzerialelementare.it

Seu Pizza Illuminati

One of the best pizzerias in Italy is found near Viale Trastevere. The establishment, led by Pierdaniele Seu and Valeria Zuppardo, sails smoothly, with precise and professional service, exceptional pairings of wines, beers, and cocktails, and menus that change with the seasons. A taste of the fried options is a must, each one better than the other. Among the pizzas, delightful choices include the Cosacca with Strawberries (with roasted tomatoes, strawberries scalded in balsamic, pecorino, mint), La Mia Margherita, La Polpo & Patate (with an exceptional green sauce). The sweet pizza is a must; Seu is a master in this genre. On the rooftop of W Rome on Via Liguria, there's Seu Pizza Con Vista, while the TAC Thin And Crunchy project, a new Roman pizzeria in Mostacciano, is taking shape.

L'Elementare  - via Benedetta, 23 – Roma - pizzerialelementare.it