Where to eat in Viareggio during Carnival: the 14 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso

Viareggio, less than three hours from Milan, not far from Lucca and Pisa, is a livable and lively seaside resort that is a pleasure to visit even in winter. Its 10 kilometers of sandy beach are perfect for long walks, as is the promenade with its Liberty-style beach resorts and many shops for shopping, easily accessible by bicycle. The cuisine revolves around sea/land, think spaghetti with razor clams or trabaccolara, stuffed mussels, fish stew (cacciucco), but also tordelli, peppery beef stew (peposo), cenci (similar to frappe), and rice and raisin fritters. Here are the 14 best restaurants:

Where to eat in Viareggio during Carnival

Abratery

Grill restaurant. Behind this sign is the historic Franceschini Butcher Shop, one of the best in the area. For meat enthusiasts, this is a delight, starting with tartare, to be enjoyed "plain" or seasoned in various ways. It continues with a tasting of tripe, brain, and fried artichokes, typical tordelli with ragu, pici with white Cinta ragu, and peppery beef stew. For the main course, succulent fillets and sumptuous steaks are the triumph. The cellar offers craft beers and mostly Tuscan references. The place has few tables, so booking is mandatory, as is buying good things.

Abratery – via G. Verdi, 111 – 0584 962255 – www.abratery.it

Amaro

Grill restaurant. The only small drawback is that the restaurant does not have a sea view, because otherwise, it is one of the most pleasant addresses in town. Many know it, as it always records sold-out, so remember to book well in advance. That said, the food here is really good. Examples include steamed seafood in jar cooking, meatballs in tomato sauce, Chianina ragu tagliatelle, sea carbonara maltagliati, excellent cod with chickpeas in oil, and pork ribs. To drink, house wines and a selection of quite good labels.

Amaro – via San Martino, 79 – 0584 962183 – www.ristoranteamaro.com

L'Angolino

 Trattoria. Right at the corner of two central streets, it is a successful address thanks to the quality of the offer, the pleasant convivial atmosphere, and the more than reasonable cost. The menu changes weekly based on the market, and the offer is based on simple and well-executed dishes that highlight the freshness of the raw materials. It starts with appetizers that depend on the moment's inspiration, then raw langoustines with citrus sauce, poor anchovies, razor clam tagliolini, zucchini cream with cuttlefish and lime, tomato-sauce mullets, and fragrant frying. Homemade desserts, good wines.

L’Angolino – via 4 Novembre (angolo via G. Verdi) – 379 1529965 – www.trattorialangolino.it

Fauzia

Gourmet Break. The Fauzia from the sign - inaugurated in 1969 - has not been there for a few years, but remains immortalized in the sweet that is the flagship of this small pastry bar on the central stretch of the promenade, now run by the son Gigi. We are talking about the "Fauzia bomb," the house's secret recipe, a fragrant brioche pastry sprinkled with powdered sugar that encloses a delicious custard. The counter, however, is overflowing with goodness, especially for breakfast. You can also have lunch, thanks to a proposal of simple express dishes.

Fauzia – viale Regina Margherita, 82 – 0584 49200 – facebook

Da Giorgio

Trattoria. A retro-style venue that has settled over time and is evidenced by walls full of photos, drawings, and posters. The solid family management has guaranteed a professional career that has lasted for over seventy years, always spent with ample public consensus. The proposal focuses on traditional Viareggio seafood dishes, based on carefully selected raw materials: raw fish, fried foods, grilled prawns, spaghetti trabaccolara (with tub gurnard, red mullet, scorpionfish), and much more according to shopping and inspiration. Small but satisfying cellar.

Da Giorgio – via G. Zanardelli, 71 – 0584 44493 – www.ristorantedagiorgioviareggio.it

Lievitamente

Pizza by the Slice. In the Viareggio commercial area, a Tre Pani from the 2024 Bread and Bakers Guide with a pleasant outdoor seating area. Here, Daniel Lunardi produces pizzas, focaccias, breads, and sweets, with sourdough and local stone-ground flours. Simple focaccia, semi-whole or whole, also stuffed, and various pizzas depending on the seasonality of the products, with options such as the "Braciami Ancora" (stracchino, grilled cooked ham, grilled green tomatoes, shavings of 24-month Parmesan, and Modena balsamic reduction). From Friday to Sunday, tasty crostini.

Lievitamente – corso G. Garibaldi, 142 – 0584 963317 – www.lievitamente.it 

Lunasia at Hotel Plaza and De Russie

Restaurant. Refined environment, design inspired by plant tones and the blue of the sea, large window on the Liberty architecture of the promenade, author photos on the walls. Central room, secluded corner, social table, and private kitchen view. Chef Luca Landi proposes his vision in this context, combining sea and land with imagination, freshness, playfulness, and finesse, but also with a light hand and remarkable technique that allows extracting the most from everything. Three menus: sea, vegetarian, and Apuan Alps, plus a "Freely Freehand" with surprise solutions. Important cellar, with options by the glass and craft beers.

Lunasia dell’Hotel Plaza e De Russie – viale D. Manin, 4/A – 0584 44449 – www.lunasiaristorante.com

Nomade

Restaurant. A table that stands out starting from the environment, studied and curated in detail, including a choreographic bar counter. But the kitchen is the strong point, with a varied menu that satisfies every need and dishes in which flavors and tastes balance wonderfully. Warm seafood salad, beef tartare with capers, onion, and anchovy, strozzapreti with rabbit ragu with Tropea onion and Taggiasca olives, steamed shellfish and vegetables, veal cheek with mashed potatoes and chard. Excellent homemade bread, delicious desserts, interesting wine list.

Nomade – via G. Zanardelli, 57 – 333 7771117 – www.nomadeviareggio.com

Ottavo Vizio

Sandwich Shop. A sure reference point for those who want a tasty snack without breaking the bank. First of all, focaccias, soft and crispy at the same time, the result of careful leavening, suitable for containing everything and more, from the most common but nonetheless good cold cuts and cheeses to specialties, such as Chianti tuna or slow-cooked Chianina shoulder. And then round pizzas, mixed fry, spiral-cut fries, sea salads... in short, Marco knows how to spoil regulars and with the same skill satisfy the occasional customer.

Ottavo Vizio – via Mentana, 3/A – 349 4220284 – www.facebook.com/lovstreetfood/

Il Pachino

Pizzeria. The restaurant, born in 1998 from the brothers Massimo and Fabrizio Giovannini, offers Neapolitan pizza with stone-ground flour, also in wholemeal version. Good quality toppings, from the Margherita (and its variations) to the "Versiliesi," like the pizza with cuttlefish in zimino. There are also the "Specials" and "The Celebrities For You," such as the Giuseppe Mancino (chef de Il Piccolo Principe, see), with mascarpone cream, Agerola fiordilatte, zucchini flowers, anchovies from the Cantabrian Sea, and marjoram. To drink, craft beers, wines, and bubbles, with some biodynamic references.

Il Pachino – via Vittorio Veneto, 46 – 0584 961063 – www.pizzeriapachino.it

Il Piccolo Principe at the Grand Hotel Principi di Piemonte

Restaurant. On the ground floor of one of the most prestigious and luxurious hotels in the city, in spaces of refined elegance, you have the good fortune to experience a gastronomic experience among the best in the entire Peninsula. The credit goes to Chef Giuseppe Mancino, born in Naples and adopted by Viareggio, the creator of a contemporary cuisine that looks at the territory and the sea with an open eye towards other cultures. Three tasting menus (one for vegetarians), accompanied by a constantly lavish new menu. Encyclopedic wine list, with all the great Italian classics and depth of vintages.

Il Piccolo Principe del Grand Hotel Principi di Piemonte – piazza G. Puccini, 1 – 0584 4011 – www.ristoranteilpiccoloprincipe.it

Pivot Bistrò by the Sea

Bistro. In a period building, a "different" venue, with feet in Versilia and head in sweet France, which exudes good taste in the environment and furnishings. Pivot, the surname of the owner (of French origin), offers typical dishes (soup, pepper, fry) but also delicate innovations in ravioli fillings and never banal dressings. The homemade strangled pasta with seafood and borage (a variation of the typical Viareggio specialty) is a tasty confirmation. Among the desserts, a delicious tiramisu or apple pie. Compact but focused wine list, commendable value for money.

Pivot Bistrò di mare – via F. Cavallotti, 4 – 0584 631438 – www.facebook.com/pivotbistrodimare/ 

Il Porto

Restaurant. Strategic location (in the dock) and beautiful sea view, welcoming and well-kept environment, and elegant mise en place. Premises for a menu that aims to enhance quality fish products with a balanced touch. Among the hits, the Monterosso anchovy cutlet with four mayonnaises, grilled imperial prawn with caramelized onion, homemade shellfish agnolotto in local white fish stew, mixed sea boil with its sauces (green, tomato and olive tapenade, anchovy tartare and mayonnaises). Well-stocked cellar.

Il Porto – via M. Coppino, 118 – 0584 384733 – www.ristoranteilporto.eu

Romano

Restaurant. Romano Franceschini, a true master of hospitality, at 80 years old is still present in the restaurant he founded in 1966, jacket and tie like a second skin while amiably chatting with customers. Son Roberto manages the room and runs a cellar with over 1,000 labels. In the kitchen, Nicola Gronchi, the author of a very personal proposal, with sometimes daring but always readable pairings. One menu is dedicated to the classics of the house, some present since the opening, such as stuffed squid with vegetables and shellfish. Among the new hits, the juniper-smoked risotto, lemon, and sparnocchi with thyme. The turbot is also excellent, pink chickpeas from Reggello, and maruzzelle with green curry.

Romano – via G. Mazzini, 122 – 0584 31382 – www.romanoristorante.it