Elba is splendid, partly because it remains somewhat wild and unspoiled, especially inland, characterized by rugged and lush nature. The sea is spectacular, with sandy or rocky beaches, bays, and coves that suit all types of tourism, and well-equipped facilities are plentiful. From Portoferraio to Capoliveri, Marciana to Porto Azzurro, despite the heavy tourist influx driving up prices, there are still good and affordable places. Here are the best ones according to Gambero Rosso.
Where to eat on Elba Island on a budget
Ristoro dell'Armandolo
Situated in a valley in the heart of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, this farm stay offers hospitality in comfortable apartments and has an in-house restaurant serving simple, genuine cuisine. Open from June to September, it’s AIS certified. The cellar stocks Elban wines. Weekly barbecues of meat and fish are a highlight.
Ristoro dell'Armandolo - Rio - fraz. Cavo - loc. Colle a Vita - 0565 931908 - agriturismo-elba.it
Osteria Cacio & Vino
In a small village inland from the coast, this unpretentious but pleasant and tidy osteria offers a splendid view from its lovely terrace. The service is casual but friendly, and the homestyle cuisine includes both land and sea dishes. Attentive to young guests. Very reasonable prices. Reservation recommended.
Osteria Cacio & Vino – San Piero in Campo - via della Porta, 12 – 0565 983351 - Facebook
Osteria del Noce
A lush walnut tree and numerous flowering plants adorn the beautiful panoramic terrace, bustling on summer evenings but cozy and with a charming view. Located at the top of Marciana, it requires climbing a few steps to reach. Despite changes in management, it remains an island classic. The menu features fresh fish and meat with an Elban-Ligurian touch and a hint of creativity, complemented by primarily local wines. Efficient service.
Osteria del Noce – Marciana - via della Madonna, 14 – 0565 901284 - osteriadelnoce.com
Camping Laconella
A quiet campsite conveniently located for reaching the beaches and bays of Lacona, one of the island’s most picturesque corners. Among its services is a pleasant restaurant with a terrace offering a view, serving a simple but well-conceived menu with well-chosen ingredients. Reservation recommended.
Camping Laconella - Capoliveri - via Laconella, 431 - 0565 964228 - campinglaconella.it
Il Castagnacciaio
Last year, rumours spread about the possible closure of this historic town centre institution, later denied on social media by the Mangino brothers themselves. No need to worry, the legendary castagnaccio and cecina, baked in a wood-fired oven in traditional brass pans, remain among the island’s most beloved specialities, along with pizzas, another must from this spartan bakery that has been a steadfast favourite for years.
Il Castagnacciaio - Portoferraio - via del Mercato Vecchio, 5 - 0565 915845
Molo G Osteria Portuale
A bistro and event venue located where a shipyard once stood. It offers a pleasant setting with a terrace on the lagoon and a garden, a relaxed atmosphere, and stylish decor. The menu, determined daily by the sea’s bounty, is written on a blackboard and includes simple but delicious dishes, with some vegan options. The wine list is mainly Elban.
Il Castagnacciaio - Portoferraio - via del Mercato Vecchio, 5 - 0565 915845
Bagni Orano
Fried fish, Elban-style stockfish, octopus spaghetti, and cacciucco: the menu at this comfortable, family-run beach establishment caters to all tastes. A pleasant, unpretentious dining spot in the magnificent setting of one of the island’s most beautiful beaches, in the heart of the Gulf of Lacona. A glass of Elban wine is the perfect accompaniment to the kitchen’s specialities.
Bagni Orano - Capoliveri - fraz. Lacona - v.le dei Golfi - 0565 964430 - bagniorano.com
Orti di Mare
This countryside establishment offers various accommodation options, from apartments to glamping tents. It also features the Market Café, offering farm-made ice cream, and the Ristoro Rurale, open only in season from 7:30 am to 10:30 pm. This year, it operates as a bistro: at lunch and dinner, no reservations are taken, you order at the counter and wait for table service. The cuisine is genuine and simple, focusing mainly on home-grown vegetables and herbs.
Orti di Mare – Lacona - via dei Vigneti, 522 – 351 9060631 - ortidimare.it
Remaiolo della Tenuta delle Ripalte
Within the Le Ripalte sea, country & wine resort, a well-known winery, besides the more "refined" restaurants Villa Ripalte, in the ancient cellars, and Calanova, on the beach, there is this ristobeach in the pine forest and by the sea for casual and tasty lunches. Sandwiches, barbecues, and cold dishes are accompanied by the estate’s wines.
Remaiolo della Tenuta delle Ripalte - Capoliveri - loc. Ripalte - 0565 942414 - tenutadelleripalte.it
cover photo by Bagni Orano
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