By Andrea Ciprian
Ski Civetta, with its 80 kilometers of slopes, is the largest ski area in Veneto. It extends entirely into the Dolomite territory, embracing Cadore, Agordino, and Val di Zoldo, and is part of Dolomiti Superski, the world's largest ski carousel. The dramatic views of peaks exceeding 3000 meters, such as Pelmo, Civetta, and Marmolada, make it a highly appreciated destination for those who love activities in contact with nature. But the attractions don't stop there for food lovers, as in recent years, this winter resort has developed a noteworthy culinary offer. Here are some huts on the slopes - accessible by lifts even for non-skiers - where you can stop to savor not only picturesque landscapes but also genuine delights.
The best huts to eat on the slopes of Ski Civetta, in Dolomiti Superski
Ristoro Belvedere - Val Fiorentina
At the top of Mount Fertazza, 2020 meters above sea level, the view is truly remarkable. The Civetta wall shows its majesty, and in the background, you can admire an exciting parade of other Dolomite peaks starting with the unmistakable silhouette of Mount Pelmo. The view is not the only strength of this place run with passion and dedication by the Torre family. You can come for breakfast to enjoy coffee or hot chocolate with excellent homemade pastries by Michela, the owner: from tarts to cheesecake to the popular "lampioni" (very popular), from excellent strudel to Sacher. Not to forget the "rose di mela," a puff pastry with apples, cinnamon, and orange zest baked in the oven, a small and unforgettable delight. Lunch is served at the self-service, and among the various proposals, meats stand out, especially the stew and game. The counter of herb or fruit-flavored grappas is famous, offering about seventy different flavors. Accessible with two chairlifts, leaving the car in Pescul, a fraction of Selva di Cadore.
Ristoro Belvedere – Località Cima Fertazza, Selva di Cadore (BL) – 328 3616725
Chalet Col dei Baldi - Alleghe
Col dei Baldi is a height that reaches almost 2000 meters, and above all, it is one of the most panoramic points in the Civetta area. The venue was completely renovated in 2016 by the Francavilla family, who carefully curated both the pleasantness of the indoor and outdoor environments and the quality of the gastronomic proposal. Matteo Pianezze, a chef who loves to reinterpret traditional recipes, giving glory to local products, is in charge of the kitchen. From his repertoire, the ravioli with sautéed porcini, saffron, pistachio, and licorice powder, and the delicious deer tagliata with pine-flavored oil, raspberry gel, and juniper apple should be remembered. The wine cellar includes both renowned Italian and foreign labels and wines from the family's (organic) winery located in Scomigo, in the heart of the Docg Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. You can reach here comfortably by taking two cable cars: the first from Alleghe to Piani di Pezzè, where the second plant starts, ending its run near Chalet Col dei Baldi.
Chalet Col dei Baldi – località Col dei Baldi, Alleghe (BL) - 0437 723978
Ristoro Fontanabona - Alleghe
A typical hut under Mount Civetta transformed into a real mountain restaurant. The De Toni family has been running it for three generations and has consistently raised the bar of quality over time. In a rustic and welcoming environment, you can enjoy tasty dishes based on local goodness, such as tortelloni with Fodom cheese, honey, and walnuts or the deer tagliata with cirmolo, red cabbage, and polenta. Excellent ribs and tagliate, as well as homemade desserts. Pizzas and valid fish proposals are also available, starting with squid ink tagliolini with seared scallops and pistachios. The wine list is noteworthy, with precious labels from different Italian regions and France, including a nice selection of Champagnes. To reach here, you climb from Alleghe with the cable car to the Piani di Pezzè area, and then there are two options: on foot, you walk for a short flat stretch (about ten minutes), or with skis, you go up with a second cable car to Col dei Baldi to descend along the slopes leading directly to Fontanabona.
Ristoro Fontanabona – Via Monte Civetta 28, Alleghe (BL) - 0437 723913
Ristoro Da Bepi - Val di Zoldo
At 1765 meters above sea level at Pian del Crep, in Val di Zoldo, this venue has been welcoming tourists since the late sixties when the first chairlift from the village (Pecol) started operating. Since 2009, it has been managed by the Perin family, which has given new life to the proposal. In the morning, you can stop for breakfasts with homemade sweets (especially the excellent apple strudel with pine nuts and cinnamon) supported by a valid cafeteria service. At lunch, on the lower floor, the self-service is active, offering enticing options, especially among the daily specials. That is unless you want to try the appetizing and generously filled sandwiches that Giuseppe Perin (known as Bepi) prepares in the external kiosk. From the menu, the smoked deer carpaccio (with spruce wood), marinated with juniper and served with aged cheese and mustard berry jam, the nettle gnocchi on cheese fondue, and generally the meats, including a tender and tasty wild boar stew, should be mentioned. In the cellar, a beautiful selection of regional labels with some excursions to other Italian regions. In the evening - the cable car also operates at night - you can have dinner in the upper-floor room, and Fridays are dedicated to fish that arrives fresh from the Caorle market.
Ristoro Da Bepi - località Pian del Crep, Val di Zoldo (BL) - 0437 788605
Baita Ru - Val di Zoldo
A small hut on the Lendina slope, easily reachable from Pecol even for non-skiers with a short walk. The Stefani family, here since last year, stands out for an original proposal that has its strengths in hot sandwiches (served with spiced potatoes), selected cold cuts and cheeses on cutting boards, and cocktails. To tell the truth, Mattia is a true chef but decided to venture into signature snacks prepared with local products, making virtue out of necessity, given the Lilliputian size of the kitchen. No harm done because some of his sandwiches do not make you miss more elaborate dishes. This is the case of the Zoldo burger, a bestseller with pastin (a blend of meat and spices prepared in local butchers), grilled vegetables, egg, creamy herb cheese, and blueberry sauce, or the Pelmo with pumpkin-flavored burger bun, smoked and lacquered shank with acacia honey. In addition to the small - but well-thought-out - wine list, you can rely on the interesting drink list: the cocktails are carefully prepared, as is the excellent Honey old fashioned made with organic honey from a Zoldo beekeeper, bourbon, and spices (star anise, chamomile, and cinnamon).
Baita Ru - Via Piovanel 6, Pecol di Val di Zoldo (BL) - 331 825 7705
Baita Civetta al Casot - Val di Zoldo
A bacaro in the mountains. The Favaretto family, true Venetians, wanted to stand out by proposing the menu of a typical lagoon tavern in the woods under Mount Civetta. Then, classics and generous cicchetti, such as various meatballs (with meat, pumpkin and sausage, spinach and gorgonzola, and more), mozzarella in carrozza with anchovies and ham, fried fish, and an unmissable whipped cod. Mirco, in the kitchen, also serves tasty dishes such as homemade bigoli with roast rabbit and olives or the succulent smoked and glazed shank with acacia honey. The desserts, prepared by mother Graziella, are very good, such as buckwheat cake, almonds, and blueberry jam, chocolate salami, soft tiramisu, and fritters. A well-tuned wine list to the cuisine with a selection of labels from various Italian regions. Baita Civetta is located at the bottom of the Grava slope and can be reached on foot from Pecol in about forty minutes with a nice walk in the woods.
Baita Civetta al Casot – località Pian de Mandra, Pecol di Val di Zoldo (BL)