Where to Eat 'Tette delle Monache' - 6 Pastry Shops Selected by Gambero Rosso

These sweets, also known as “Tre Monti” in Abruzzo and “Sospiri” in Puglia, are delicious brioche-based pastries filled with pastry cream or chantilly. The nuns of the Clarissan order in Guardiagrele, Abruzzo, and Altamura, Puglia, were the ones who conceived and continued the tradition for a long time.

The Abruzzo version differs from the one in Puglia in the shape. In Abruzzo, the “sise de mòneche” (nun’s breasts) has three points, and the reason, it is believed, is a reference to the three peaks of the Apennines: Gran Sasso, Majella, and Monte Sirente. Another theory suggests that the name comes from a practice tha nuns used to do: flattening their breasts by placing fabric between them to prevent their shape from being visible.

In Puglia, the legend tells that “sospiri” were created by the nuns of the convent of Bisceglie to celebrate the marriage between the Count of Conversano and Lucrezia Borgia, even though the ceremony never took place. The disappointed guests, due to the bride's absence, found solace in these small cakes, subsequently renamed “sospiri,” sighs. Some sources, however, attribute the origin of this soft pastry to the area of Alta Murgia, in the mediaeval town of Altamura, already known for its PDO bread ( here are the best local bread bakers selected by Gambero Rosso). Excellent examples can also be found in Matera, a few kilometres from Altamura. Although the exact origin of the names and shapes of the pastries are shrouded in legend and popular imagination, the connection between the Abruzzo “sise delle monache” and the Puglia “Sospiri” can be traced back to the tradition of monasteries and the creativity of the Clarissan nuns who have kept this ancient pastry art alive.

 Where to Eat “Tette delle Monache” - 6 Pastry Shops from North to South

Alla Villa dei Cedri

The modern and minimalist setting provides a beautiful backdrop for one of the most delightful stops among the hills of Prosecco in Valdobbiadene and Conegliano, a UNESCO World Heritage site. A son of the trade, Massimo Carnio has managed to make the most of the experience passed down from his father and grandfather, growing the business and earning numerous awards. The display presents a repertoire that shines with creativity and care, whether it's cakes (the Lemon Spiral is excellent) or petits fours, among which stand out the puncetto with buttercream and amarena and various baskets, like those with jam or lemon marmalade and meringue. They also offer “tette delle monache,” not easy to find in these parts. There are around twenty references for breakfast, from vegan croissants to rolls with cooked cream, from kipferl to chocolate bundles. The large leavened products, gelato, and chocolate are unmissable, areas where Carnio demonstrates great skill.

 Valdobbiadene (TV) - via Piva, 100 - tel. 0423 974110 - pasticceriavilladeicedri.it

Pasticceria Lullo Emo

Emo Lullo, the fourth generation at the helm of the pastry shop founded at the end of the 19th century, inherited from his grandfather a love for the local area. The place, small and with the air of an old-fashioned shop, is indeed a concentrate of tradition. The “Sise de moneche” have always been a specialty – three domes of sponge cake filled with a velvety “yellow cream” (local name for pastry cream) and dusted with icing sugar, to be enjoyed on-site or taken away. Also unmissable are the Aelion nougats (the ancient name of Guardiagrele), a delight made of sugar, almonds, and candied orange, and worth trying are the almond pastries (unpeeled, according to the grandfather's recipe), amaretti, marzipan sweets, confetti, and, when in season, the excellent zeppole. The collaboration with Matteo Zuccarino is virtuous, resulting in flavours like Sise and Aelion gelato and Aelion panettone.

Guardiagrele (CH) - via Roma, 105 - tel. 0871 82242 - pasticcerialullo.it

Celeste Ancona Dolcecaffè

It was practically “born” in the Celeste Ancona family oven, where from a very young age, she dedicated herself to making sweets, a passion she deepened through study and research, expressing it every day in her well-kept and tidy pastry shop and in her blog. Her specialties, made from fresh and genuine (also local) ingredients, are a thoughtful mix of tradition and modernity. The large leavened and breakfast goods are well-crafted, from the “simple” croissant to the roll garnished with chocolate and almonds, from the tasty pain au chocolat to the muffins. On the counter, there are slices and tartlets, cannoli, cream puffs, the typical “tette della monaca,” jarred desserts, and dry pastries (the almond paste sweets are excellent). A varied range of pies, semifreddo, and cakes, balanced and well-presented, like the Sacher, lemon cake, and elaborate creations for special occasions. Gelato is also available (even on a stick). Appetising savoury pastries are served during aperitif time.

Bari - via A. Diaz, 34 - tel. 392 3553157 - celesteancona.it

Covella Pasticceri

On the long counter of this always well-organised and curated pastry shop, an endless array of sweet creations from both regional and national traditions are displayed. Excellent are the “pasticciotti,” with various fillings (especially the hazelnut one), the soft and frothy “tette della monaca” (one leads to another due to their lightness), and the enjoyable cannoli (except for an overly sweet filling, which risks penalising the quality of the very good ricotta). There are also babà, maritozzi with cream, zeppole di San Giuseppe, all made with skill and excellent raw materials. The artisanal gelato is worth a taste during the warmer seasons, and the perfectly executed semifreddo are tempting all year round. They also have a bar with good coffee and cappuccino and a pleasant savoury offering (which turns into proper dining at the Garibaldi location). The service is courteous.

Gioia del Colle (BA) - via A. Gramsci, 2/O - tel. 392 8811834 - covellapasticceri.it

The cover photo is from Covella Pasticceri

Natale

The now historic brand of the Natale family originated in San Cesario (where it recently moved to Officine Denghi) and expanded in 1999 in the heart of Lecce. In the well-kept and welcoming premises, ample space is dedicated to delightful gelato (in around fifty flavours) and, among shelves and showcases, to typical specialties like “stozzetti” (with chocolate, almonds, citrus fruits, and rum), “cartucce,” biscuits, Salento cake (with quince and pear jam), almond milk, “tette delle monache,” and above all, “fruttoni” and pasticciotti, which are celebrated with amusing prints featuring the image of Santo Pasticciotto. There are also cream puffs, cannoli, babà, cake slices, cassatas, individual portions of Parisian pastries and tiramisù, croissants, and maritozzi, spumoni, and semifreddo. The savoury offerings are also very tempting, from savoury pastries to sandwiches and croissants, from meat and pea bundles to ricotta and spinach tortellini. The chocolate shop is noteworthy. The hospitality is excellent.

Lecce - via S. Trinchese, 7 tel. 0832 256060 - natalepasticceria.it

Schiuma since 1946

Since 1946, a reference point for those who love the elegance of Italian tradition and pastry. To start the day, there's a good range of croissants and brioche, soft and always fresh (in addition to inviting savoury options) to pair with coffee, but the big draw here are the typical “tette delle monache,” filled with chantilly cream and also available in pistachio or chocolate versions. There's also an extensive assortment of babà, cream puffs, cubed cakes in various flavours, and macarons. A significant section is dedicated to dry biscuits, with “sospiri,” tiles, and other specialties ideal for takeaway. Chocolate lovers can rely on a well-stocked praline department, and at Easter, on eggs with refined decorations. Completing the offering are semifreddo and cakes, both on display and personalised for special occasions. The service is well-organised.

Matera - via XX Settembre, 10 - tel. 0835 331862 - pasticceriaschiuma.com