In Rome, all it takes is a stroll through the Jewish Ghetto and the aromas and flavours of Jewish-Roman cuisine are right there, within reach. From ricotta and sour cherry tart, to concia and hummus, you’ll arrive straight at carciofi alla giudia, served fried with a presentation as scenic as the finest minimal plating: the artichoke appears like a flower with golden open petals, placed upside down on the serving plate. The best carciofi alla giudia are made using cimaroli, also known as mammole, grown between Ladispoli and Civitavecchia. These are round artichokes with little choke, ideal for this recipe which requires great skill in preparation.
How carciofo alla giudia is made
Let’s start with the basics: carciofi alla giudia are fried twice. The first time they are fried whole; the second time, only the outer leaves (brattee), which resemble flower petals, are fried. After the first fry, the leaves are gently opened and dipped in boiling oil at a higher temperature than the first frying, with the artichoke held by the stem. This allows the brattee to become crisp and golden.
Where to eat carciofi alla giudia
Da Enzo al 29
You’ll have to queue to eat here, but it’s worth it. From this historic Roman spot, you can taste true Roman cuisine done the right way: carciofo alla giudia, carbonara, amatriciana, coda alla vaccinara. Don’t miss Enzo’s tiramisù and the house wine.
Via dei Vascellari, 29
Da Teo
A lovely family-run place offering solid local cuisine along with a few well-prepared fish dishes. The setting is traditional, the tables close together, the menu typical and flavourful: carciofo alla giudia, fried courgette flower, carbonara, penne all’arrabbiata, gnocchi, coda alla vaccinara, grilled lamb chops.
Piazza dei Ponziani, 7A
Flavio Velavevodetto
Flavio De Maio’s trattoria is a stronghold of authentic Roman food. Classic dishes like carbonara, homemade-style breaded veal cutlet, perfectly made carciofo alla giudia, and textbook fried meatballs and lamb ribs.
Via di Monte Testaccio, 97

Carciofo alla giudia di Flavio Velavevodetto
Da Giggetto
A historic name in the Jewish Ghetto of Rome, which celebrated its centenary two years ago. At Giggetto’s, alongside the whole fried cod fillet sourced from Iceland, the carciofo alla giudia is a must – fried here since the 1920s when Nonna Ines started making them on makeshift street stoves.
Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 21/a

Da Giggetto
Al Pompiere
Here, alongside Roman and Jewish-Roman cuisine, the setting is also to be appreciated: lunch (and dinner) is served under frescoes from the sixteenth century. This historic Roman eatery offers traditional dishes like cacio e pepe, amatriciana, grilled lamb chops, pecorara (a fried mix of brains, ricotta, breaded lamb chops, and artichokes). The carciofo alla giudia is unmissable.
Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 28

Carciofo e fiore di zucca di Al Pompiere
Checco er Carettiere
A steadfast address under the same family management since 1935. Stefania Porcelli leads the kitchen, and thanks to her skilled hands, time-honoured recipes arrive at the table, beginning with the famous supplì and carciofo alla giudia. Among the most appreciated dishes: mezzemaniche all’amatriciana.
Via Benedetta, 10
Trattoria Renato al Ghetto
Located in a century-old building in the Roman Ghetto, Trattoria Renato al Ghetto is one of the places to taste Jewish-Roman cuisine. Carciofo alla giudia takes pride of place on the menu under starters, followed by other traditional dishes: concia, hummus, falafel. Among the first courses you’ll find kosher amatriciana and tonnarelli with dried meat and artichokes.
Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 5
Ba’ Ghetto (Al Portico d’Ottavia)
In the heart of the Ghetto, the cuisine is kosher, offering a mix of Jewish-Roman tradition (carciofi alla giudia, marinated fried courgettes, Jewish-style cod) and Middle Eastern and Libyan dishes (falafel, meat hummus, various couscous).
Via del Portico D’Ottavia, 57
Matricianella
Now an institution, this spot is located in a beautiful corner of the city centre. The place is genuine, as is its cuisine, with all the classics – carbonara, amatriciana, cacio e pepe – and excellent carciofi alla romana and alla giudia. The wine list is encyclopaedic, with nearly a thousand labels.
Via del Leone, 4

Matricianella
Piatto Romano
This well-known trattoria for traditional cuisine has in recent years expanded its offerings, adding vegetarian dishes and occasionally playing with unexpected ingredients. So alongside carciofo alla giudia, amatriciana, and tripe, you’ll also find double cream kidneys with togarashi and chinotto, black garlic tagliolini, and cod with dried fruit – bringing intriguing and captivating flavours and aromas.
Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62
Sora Lella
The grandchildren of Sora Lella continue the family tradition with deeply Roman dishes. You can choose between a tasting menu or à la carte, with Roman recipes like coda alla vaccinara, animelle alla cacciatora, chicken with peppers, gnocchi all’amatriciana, saltimbocca, and maritozzo. Among the starters, the carciofo alla giudia is a must.
V. di Ponte Quattro Capi, 16

Sora Lella
Nonna Betta – Cucina Kosher Style
Come here for the history and the cooking of Nonna Betta, which radiates from the walls. Artichokes are a must in every dish – from the classic carciofo alla giudia as a starter to the gricia (with artichokes) and amatriciana with carciofi alla giudia. Jewish-Roman home cooking is served up fresh and fast here.
Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 16

Nonna Betta