The use of chickpea flour for cakes and fried foods is a metaphor for the Mediterranean, from Sicily to Marseille. In eastern and western Liguria, the ritual takes the name farinata: baked in a wood-fired oven, in wide copper pans, with the flavor of local extra virgin olive oil as an ideal complement. Finding really good ones in Liguria is child's play among the ancient sciamadde, hotspots with large wood-burning ovens (the term in dialect really means "flamed") and quality bakeries. Here are the best ones.
Where to find farinata in Liguria
Antica Sciamadda
The house specialties are many, but the flagship product has always been farinata baked in a wood-fired oven. Thin, flavorful, prepared to perfection, Antica Sciamadda's farinata is ideal for the more traditionalists, who can find the authentic flavor of Ligurian cuisine here. Kindness is at home; there are a few shelves for those who want to eat right away or you can opt for take-out.
Antica Sciamadda - Genoa - via San Giorgio, 14 r
Antico Forno della Casana
he offerings of this fine bakery, guarded among the alleys of the Old Town, are wide-ranging and include all the staples of Genoese street food: from classic focaccia to focaccia with onions, both well made, not forgetting focaccia with Recco-type cheese. Also present is the farinata, simple and delicious, capable of winning you over at the first bite.
Antico Forno della Casana - Genoa - Vico della Casana, 17r
A Sciamadda
At the end of the old carugio du Mù (now called Via Costanzo) in the center of Oneglia, Andrea Carli carries on the family tradition of the sciamadda, with the 19th-century wood-burning oven always alight in the preparation of the town's typical specialties. Starting with the chickpea farinata, baked in large round pans and perfect for a mouthwatering snack. Courteous service and a veracious atmosphere complete the picture.
A Sciamadda - Imperia - via D. Costanzo, 20 - facebook.com/ASciamaddaOneglia/?locale=en_EN
Farinata da Virginia
It was 1870: in Rome the bersaglieri entered through Porta Pia, and in Pietra Ligure "muè Mummina" opened this ancient sign, which still makes the enjoyment of those who love farinata. It is the main course, baked in a wood-fired oven as tradition dictates. Also worth a try is the lesser-known farinata di grano, typical of Savona, available only to order and by the whole pan.
Farinata da Virginia - Pietra Ligure (SV) - via Giuseppe Mazzini, 70 - farinatadavirginia.it/
La Nicchia
For many it is considered the best farinata possible, the one prepared daily in this trattoria of ancient memory. There are two versions: the classic Ligurian version with chickpea flour and the light-colored and slightly crispier wheat version, which is equally delicious.
La Nicchia - Albissola Marina (SV) - via M.Repetto, 102
Panificio Moltedo dal 1874
It is said that the best focaccia in all of Recco, home of the focaccia with cheese par excellence, is found in this bakery. After all, it was born here and it is really hard to find it so good outside the town's borders. But you also come to Moltedo's for a taste of the other Ligurian baked goods, including farinata, which is as well made as the rest of the offering.
Panificio Moltedo dal 1874 - Recco (GE) - via XX Settembre, 2 - facebook.com/PanificioMoltedo1874/?locale=en_EN
Pia La Centenaria
Expertly prepared farinata is the reason for the success of Pia, a historic eatery (in business since 1887) that has always been popular with La Spezzini and those in town for tourism or business.The environment is cozy and spartan, a must to taste all the variations: gorgonzola farinata, with pesto, classic, with stracchino cheese, with onions. Various locations also outside the city.
Pia La Centenaria - La Spezia - via Magenta, 12 - lapia.it/
Fette Panissa
Chickpea flour, water and salt: same basic ingredients as farinata, which here, however, give rise to small slices cooked in boiling oil and served plain in foil or as the filling of a focaccia (a bit like Sicilian panelle). In short, not a farinata, of course, but a special fried version of the typical savory cake prepared by a bicentennial business. Those with a sweet tooth will not be able to resist.
Fette Panissa - Savona - Vico dei Crema
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