Tre Bicchieri 2023: Wine and Trentino region, between small wineries and big consortiums
Celebrations of the appellation's 50-year anniversary (it was one of the first founded in Italy) have shone a light on the quality of Trentino's viticulture, thanks to the work of wine giants (cooperatives) and a myriad of growers who cultivate its vineyards with the same care and attention that one might show for a garden. And its success involves the whole region, even if, too often, the highest-quality products are confined to the Dolomites. Among their whites, you'll often find iconic interpretations thanks to varieties such as nosiola, müller thurgau and some good moscato giallos, making for a collection of precise (and sometimes intriguing) regional wines.
Trentino: 120 years of great sparkling wines
Having said that, there's no doubt that it's once again Trentino's classic spumante that leads the way, drawing on a tradition launched on the banks of the Adige River way back in 1902, with Giulio Ferrrari, who aimed to craft a wine of charm, one that faithfully reflected the qualities of the vintage and was destined to endure over time. In 120 years everything has changed in a constant crescendo of quality. The sector is experiencing a moment of great dynamism, driven on by incentives to produce, with over 60 wineries already members of the Istituto di Tutela Trentodoc, while at least 40 other private wineries are going it alone with metodo classico bubbly that, in any case, still bears the name of the Trento DOC production zone. These wineries tend to manage vineyards at high elevations, and perhaps produce a few thousand bottles, but they're still characterized by great skill and a clear vision, regardless of lower production figures: in short, small but ready to face every challenge. For proof, just scroll through the list of Tre Bicchieri to see the number of wines that made it to our final round of tastings, a list that includes many well-known names and some new ones, starting with Revì, which accompanies several long-established but still high performing wineries: Ferrari, Letrari, Maso Martis, Rotari, Moser and Balter. All wines that aren't just good, but precise in their identity, territorial and expressive of the Dolomites.
The new Tre Bicchieri of Trentino
Trentino is this and more. To find out, just scroll through our reviews, curious new developments and entries on the following pages. It's all there: the prestige of unforgettable reds—above all Guerrieri Gonzaga's San Leonardo—in harmony with Pinot Neros—Maso Cantanghel and Corvée. And don't forget the producers of Teroldego, led by De Vescovi Ulzbach, who want (they would like) to simply be called by the name of the area of origin: Campo Rotaliano. We close with a small piece of big news, a first release that achieved our highest score: Tre Bicchieri for the Vin de La Neu, a very charming white that leads a lineup of wines made from "disease-resistant" grapes, a category on which the talented enologist Nicola Biasi has long bet.
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