With fish, you can (also) drink red!

If you’re someone who believes, "fish only goes with white wine," we’re sorry to say, but you’re clinging to a taboo that has long lost its relevance. The problem with such deeply rooted beliefs, much like pairing cheese with wine, lies in overgeneralisation. Everything that comes from the water—whether freshwater or saltwater—falls under the vast umbrella term "fish," even though we’re dealing with vastly different products.

It doesn’t take extraordinary insight to understand the stark differences between the delicate, aromatic nuances of raw scampi and the robust savouriness of grilled sardines; or between a gently seared John Dory fillet dressed with a drizzle of mild olive oil and a hearty, flavourful fish stew like those found along our coasts.

Red wine with fish: when and why

These few examples make it clear that when pairing wine with fish, we need to go beyond the surface and delve into the specifics of the ingredients, distinguishing them based on various factors: fat content, saltiness, cooking methods, and accompanying ingredients. These variables open up a world of gastronomic possibilities that cannot be confined to the simplistic "white wine with fish."

But which reds are best suited for seafood dishes?

The ideal red is generally young, fragrant, with a fresh acidic streak, lightly or moderately structured, and with barely perceptible tannins. Let’s explore some wines highlighted in Gambero Rosso’s Berebene guide, offering excellent labels with the best value for money.

Verduno Pelaverga Speziale '23 – F.lli Alessandria

The F.lli Alessandria winery, founded in 1870, is one of the oldest producers in Verduno, in the province of Cuneo. Today, it’s managed by Gian Battista, his wife Flavia, his brother Alessandro, and his son Vittore, who continue the family’s long winemaking tradition with a commitment to classicism. The vineyards feature nebbiolo alongside dolcetto, barbera, freisa, and pelaverga, with favorita as the sole white grape variety.

While their Barolo wines are the flagship of their production, they are not particularly suitable for seafood dishes. However, the Verduno Pelaverga Speziale '23 is a perfect match: as its name suggests, it’s spicy, with floral nuances and a lively, refined palate.
Recommended pairing: Try it with a seafood risotto, well-peppered and tinged with a touch of tomato.

A. A. Schiava V. V. '23 – Glögglhof–Franz Gojer

In an area where acquiring vineyards is nearly impossible, Franz Gojer has expanded his operations, starting with the Santa Maddalena vineyards near the city centre and reaching the high altitudes of Cornedo all’Isarco, home to white grape varieties. This family-run winery is managed by Franz, his wife Maria Luise, and their son Florian. They are master interpreters of the Schiava variety, benefiting from vineyards situated in its native cradle in Bolzano.

The Vigne Vecchie '23 comes from a vineyard at 600 metres altitude, where the grapes trade some immediate fruitiness for enhanced sapidity and acidity. The result is a glass that should be served cool, appreciated for its dynamism and tension.
Recommended pairing: Serve it with a classic roasted turbot with potatoes—you won’t regret it.

Chianti Cetamura '22 – Badia a Coltibuono

The expressive authenticity of Badia a Coltibuono’s wines, born from a deep sensitivity to their craft, has been a hallmark of the Stucchi Prinetti family’s winery in Monti, in the southern part of Gaiole in Chianti. These wines, classic yet modern, maintain the Sangiovese grape’s true character.

The Chianti Cetamura '22 is a delightful example: fragrant with fruity aromas and well-balanced on the palate, where its light, enjoyable structure shines.
Recommended pairing: Stay in Tuscany but change regions—try it with a Livorno-style cacciucco fish stew.

Crae Primitivo '23 – Cantine Tre Pini

For over thirty years, the Plantamura family has run a farmhouse in the Alta Murgia National Park, producing a small range of wines exclusively from local grape varieties for over a decade. Their vineyards, located in Cassano delle Murge and Acquaviva delle Fonti at 400-450 metres altitude, focus on aromatic clarity, fruit freshness, and drinkability.

The Crae Primitivo '23 is a young wine made in steel tanks. Its aromas of mulberry and fresh red fruits lead to a bold, fruity palate with immediate appeal.
Recommended pairing: It might seem risky with seafood, but try it with polpo alla Luciana (octopus with tomatoes and capers), perhaps with a spicy kick—it will surprise you.

Etna Rosso '22 – Cottanera

Founded by Guglielmo and Enzo Cambria, Cottanera has become a key player in the Etna wine renaissance. Initially focusing on international grape varieties like Syrah, Merlot, and Mondeuse, they gradually shifted attention to native grapes and the unique qualities of their vineyards in prestigious areas.

Recommended pairing: If you have fresh prawns and a grill at hand, pair them with a bottle of Etna Rosso '22. Its aromas of blackberry, nectarine, iron-like minerality, and undergrowth combine with a savoury, mature palate, fine tannins, and a beautifully spiced finish.