Wood, steel, concrete, or terracotta: what to choose based on the wine you want to produce

The use of large barrels or barriques in the fermentation or ageing stages of wine production is a crucial decision for a winery, as it defines the style and characteristics of the final product. In the history of Italian winemaking, from Piedmont to Veneto and down to Sicily, there have often been strong divides between supporters of one or the other, particularly within major denominations. But which vessel is best suited for wine? This is the thought-provoking question posed by Professor Vincenzo Gerbi, lecturer in Oenology at the University of Turin, as part of the advanced training course The Wine of the Future: New Skills for New Scenarios, organised under the scientific direction of Professor Attilio Scienza by Gambero Rosso Academy and available on demand on the Gambero Rosso website.

The concrete egg

Wood (barrels, barriques, tonneaux), concrete, fibreglass-reinforced plastic, stainless steel: Professor Gerbi traces the evolution of wine containers from the earliest amphorae of antiquity, highlighting the pros and cons of each material in relation to temperature fluctuations, thermal conductivity, oxygen permeability, and long-term durability. Although concrete, as he explains, was considered obsolete over the years due to advancements in food industry technology, in recent times, “a new vessel has become fashionable: the concrete egg, coated with food-grade epoxy resins, making it perfectly washable.” Its shape allows for a wide distribution of fine lees, and it is thermally stable, which Gerbi describes as “a fundamental element for wine ageing.”

Natural concrete eggs - photo Rocche dei Manzoni 2018

Evolution and modernity

When it comes to alcoholic fermentation and maceration, steel containers are particularly suitable and convenient. “Lower and wider vessels,” explains Gerbi, “encourage greater contact with the skins compared to taller, slimmer ones. Horizontal steel fermenters, for example, are ideal for red wines but less so for whites.” Modern technology has also led wineries to adopt new concrete fermenters shaped like the traditional truncated-cone vats of the past, as well as wood-steel fermenters, which combine the easy cleanability of steel with the micro-oxygenation benefits of wood. “These vessels are aesthetically pleasing and certainly functional,” says Gerbi, “but they are not easy to manage due to the differing expansion coefficients of wood and steel.” Modernity and tradition also merge in relatively recent innovations, such as thermal conditioning via stainless steel tubing inside wooden vats. Here too, the main challenges lie in cleaning and maintenance.

The advantages of wood

The growing use of amphorae in winemaking is a defining characteristic of recent times. However, when comparing amphorae to wood, the key difference, as Professor Gerbi points out, is not in their ability to micro-oxygenate the wine but rather “in their ability to stabilise colour.” This process also occurs in amphorae, but in wooden barrels, thanks to acetaldehyde, the bond between tannins and anthocyanins is stronger. “In wine-soaked wood,” explains Gerbi, “the tannins of the wine interact with those of the wood, which act as oxygen carriers and significantly accelerate this process. From this perspective, wood is not entirely replicable—only partially.”

"Barricades against Barriques" in Barolo

Large barrels and barriques also differ in terms of their manufacturing techniques: barriques are made exclusively using split wood, whereas larger, thicker staves can also be cut using mechanical saws. The advantages of wood also extend to the aromatic complexity of the wine, influenced by different levels of toasting and the methods used to achieve various intensities. These aspects are covered in detail by Professor Gerbi in the Gambero Rosso Academy’s advanced training course. The use of different wooden vessels has long divided the wine industry into opposing camps. “The so-called ‘barricades against barriques’ in Barolo are still fresh in our memory,” recalls Gerbi. This refers to the debate between those who argue that wine should not be altered and that large barrels allow for natural stabilisation, versus those who support the barrique for its delicate vanilla notes and its faster colour stabilisation, which is proportional to the difference in stave thickness.

So, where does the truth lie?

Here you can find all the information about the Advanced Training Course The Wine of the Future by Gambero Rosso.