A piece of history. Two, actually. On the one hand there's the restaurant. Well known by those who love good food, it made a name for itself in the city some time ago, defended its reputation for decades and has since undergone a successful period of fine-tuning, leading to a revival. The other is kept underground, where their wines are stored (many of them, and good ones, divided into subsets on the menu, all marked with the fateful "12"), and where ruins dating back more than 2,000 years are still visible. Mario Buffo's contemporary style of cuisine pairs nicely with these ancient roots (tasting menus are available, including the chef's menu at 120) as do successful yet audacious combinations, like "water, flour, mussels and 'nduja" or pigeon-stuffed chicken. The service is on point and well informed.