At lunch and dinner, in summer and winter, even during the windows in which lockdown restrictions were eased, the "Capitano" has shown enviable constancy, all without ever giving the impressing of being on autopilot. It's all thanks to an experience kitchen (and dining room) staff, well managed by Andrea Manzoli, who launched the restaurant together with Giancarlo Perbellini and other partners. It would be redundant to get into the quality of their ingredients, which is always superb. On the other hand, the ability to offer regional specialties like cacciucco and cappon magro with a unique twist is amusing. Then, it's clear that even just a series of first-rate raw seafood dishes and oysters can make for an enjoyable experience. A five-course tasting menu costs 62 (at lunch 38). Good wine cellar, with a particular focus on France.