Don't be mislead by the term bistro: it is that merely in the size and proximity of the tables, in the essentiality of the equipment even in a refined context, in the light and loose service, but always professional and full of explanations. The substance, however, bears the signature and style of Antonino Cannavacciuolo (from Villa Crespi), here represented by Nicola Somma, one of his many good students. The recipes are bear the chef's unmistakable imprint: raw amberjack with puttanesca, Agerola taralli and Bra sausage; sweetbreads Wellington with eel gelato; "turbot and robiola". A couple of six-course menus at 85 and 95 euro, and a well-equipped cellar at reasonable prices, with a good by-the-glass offer.