Enrico Bartolini is a man who rarely lets himself go, and so when he does he should be carefully listened to. When speaking of Donato Ascani, the chef to whom he entrusted his Venetian restaurant, he always says the same thing, "He's extremely good. He prepares incredible dishes, I don't know how he does it". Indeed, the 30 year old from Fiuggi authors food rich in personality, combining the fundamentals of a great chef with an indisputable talent. It's clear that he immediately felt comfortable in Venice, starting with its ingredients. So trust his "free-hand" tasting menu (with the nice name "Jazz of nature and origins"): ten uncontrived courses for 230. The other two menus pay homage to local ingredients ("Arte, orti e laguna" for 160) and Glam classics (180, the most "Bartolinian" of the range), like acquadelle in sauces and the excellent risotto with juniper, rabbit kidney and chicory water. The classy atmosphere (bonus) makes everything easier, but one has to be worthy of the prestigious, 16th-century Palazzo Venart, situated just a stone's throw from the Grand Canal and endowed with an incredible summer garden. The service, cellar and kitchen all are.