A family-run hotel that needed to be revived, starting perhaps with food. A harmonious duo of young but well-established chefs: one with experience at Dolada and Pellicano, the other (also a pastry chef) having worked with Beck and Scarello. The result is Incàlmo, in Veneto, a project that's just waiting to bear fruit (the first inklings of which are already very promising). There are two menus, one "veg" and the other a large, surprise menu, available at 60 and 80 respectively (with possible pairing). Dishes include: sweetbread, almonds, carrot and anise; buttons of robiola cheese, fermented plum, rennet water; glazed aubergines, celery, cherry or amberjack, capers and elderberry. It's all carried out with energy so as to enliven guests' taste buds. Leo Zanon's desserts, savory and "vegetal", daring but intriguing, deserve a special mention. Helpful advice when it comes time to choose from their 300 wines. Courteous service.
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