To find this lively place, look for the bell tower of the Basilica of Santi Filippo e Giacomo, a symbol of Cortina. You'll find it right at the foot of the tower, in a corner of the main square. Loved by Ampezzo locals, but also popular with tourists and passersby, it's a popular haunt for an aperitif (which in winter begins with the "après-ski"). During happy hour it's all clinking glasses amidst wines, beers, cocktails and the obligatory Spritz. Their selection of sparkling wines, from prosecco to Franciacorta, is interesting and draws from Italy's best producers. Their repertoire of savory treats (tramezzino sandwiches, pizzas, cold cuts and cheeses, toasted sandwiches with Dobbiaco cheese and panini with freshly sliced cold cuts) is valid and tasty. The coffee is also good, always well made. Quick and sure-footed service, even during peak hours.