Nidaba isn't your usual pub, but a modern, stylish place where customers are offered select brews, the result of tireless and passionate research in Italy, Europe and the US. Andrea De Bortoli was only 19 when, in the late 1970s, he transformed his mother's tavern into a "birroteca", handling their selection of beverages while his sister Daniela prepared the food. Time has passed, but the two haven't changed roles, only that now they're supported by a young, motivated team. In fact Anna (Daniela's daughter) has arrived to help out in the dining room after her impressive London experience at Clare Smyth's Core. Lorenzo Torresan, the chef's pupil, has already carved out a leading role in the kitchen. These two new presences are helping to steer the ship towards new horizons, both by giving more attention to vegetable produce and by using beer as an ingredient in the recipes. And the results are very promising, as shown by the chickpea mousse with vegetable tartare, the salanova salad and Porto Santo Spirito shrimps, or pigeon accompanied by smoked pepper foam and their bordelaise sauce (made with cherry beer). More thought-out dishes are flanked by the inevitable signature eats, like the succulent Rossini Nidaburger with Limousine meat and foie gras escalope. The cellar is constantly evolving, as Andrea has sought out the beers that best match the dishes. A very wide range, which revolves around a core of niche products from the best Belgian and Franconian breweries, surprises with some reserve bottles going back 10 or more years. If the guest so wishes, all the necessary background and explanations can be provided, as spreading the culture of quality beer is considered a mission here. And if you want to sip on something else, our advice is to opt for excellent house gin and tonics.
