Caltagirone plates and relaxed ambiance in this Portomaso eatery. Tables enjoy seaside views, and the dishes betray the Italian touch in the kitchen, which is operated by an ingenious female chef from Lazio whose attention to detail is evident. Think whitebait fritters, assorted fish stews, or the amberjack or swordfish steaks. Pastas are hand-stretched and well dressed. The breadbasket features homemade goods and Nadia expertly directs the dining room. The wine list is above par and representative of all the Italian regions.