A stop at Leandro Luppi's cozy Vecchia Malcesine is still one of the best on Lake Garda. The atmosphere is elegant, welcoming, the tables overlooking the lake are fabulous, the cellar and service are up to par. If it is true that life begins at 50, this Bolzano cook, who adopted Garda as his home (he's devoted much more attention to the area than many natives), is worth watching, because the restaurant's growth in recent years has found success in the "R-Evolution": 11 courses for 130 euros, with many ideas and remarkable techniques on display, from sensational sweetbreads to eggplant & bottarga and kiwi & catfish. For those who aren't in the know, there's also the Classic & More (100 euros), a menu that always has the right edge and energy: classic Luppi.