Alain Ducasse opens his restaurant in Rome: "Competitor? Certainly Heinz Beck, his cuisine is more French than mine"

Ten years, 250 administrative protocols, and countless restrictions were needed to bring it to fruition. Today, the Hotel Romeo in Rome, designed by architect Zaha Hadid, has finally opened its doors. Carrara marble, lava stone, glass, solid wood, and Krion are the materials defining this “urban resort,” enriched by works of contemporary artists – Christian Leperino, Mario Schifano, Mimmo Paladino, Francesco Clemente, to name just a few. All collective services, from the gym to the spa to the courtyard pool with a transparent bottom revealing the archaeological remains below, are distributed on the ground floor for optimal functionality. Meanwhile, the upper floors host 74 rooms (bookable on the website starting from €2,500), perfectly aligned with the hotel’s philosophy, and the exclusive Krug Terrace, open only to guests, like the rest of the spaces – all except for the Alain Ducasse restaurant. Helmed by French chef Ducasse, alongside Stèphane Petit, who will initially lead the kitchen, the restaurant offers a single 9-course tasting menu priced at €280.

Photo Chris Dalton

What’s on the Menu at Alain Ducasse’s restaurant in Rome?

A single tasting menu that, despite being conceived by a French chef, has strong Italian influences. It’s like a compendium of the finest ingredients. From Apulian violet artichoke – presented as carpaccio and paired with oyster (this is Ducasse, after all) – to Roman chicory with anchovy sauce and buffalo cream, to butternut squash and sea urchins (from Sardinia), served with an eremorange, a hybrid of desert lime and sweet orange.

Pasta takes center stage among the savoury courses: tagliolini – sacrilege! – paired with perfectly crafted miniature tortellini containing a small piece of mushroom, beautifully complemented by Umbrian butter and truffle. For the mains, animal proteins shine: grilled turbot with Jerusalem artichoke (the least convincing dish), a stunning grilled veal tongue with rocket and mustard, and Tuscan venison saddle with cabbage. The desserts are truly exceptional, particularly the Chocolate and Coffee – from the Manufacture Alain Ducasse in Paris – accompanied by a superb buckwheat ice cream.

Photo Matteo Carassale

How was the tasting menu developed?

It took about a year, during which Stèphane Petit sampled and sourced suppliers. “We started with the best Italy has to offer right now, without limiting ourselves to zero-kilometre produce – from truffles to chicory. Then we looked around to see what competitors were doing to offer something different; I hope we succeeded. We’re not here to emulate anyone. That doesn’t mean our offering is better than the competitors’ – it’s simply different. It carries Ducasse’s signature,” he says with a laugh.

Who are your competitors?

“There are many, but one of them is certainly Heinz Beck.”

Have you dined at La Pergola?

“Yes. We’re offering something different. Perhaps Heinz Beck’s menu is more French than ours!”

Surely, it uses less butter compared to French cuisine?

“Modern French cuisine doesn’t use as much butter anymore.”

What is the purpose of a restaurant?

“To ensure the customer’s happiness.”

Regarding customer-centricity: doesn’t offering a single tasting menu restrict the customer’s freedom of choice?

“Democracy doesn’t work anymore” (laughs again). “Jokes aside, perhaps we’ll adapt to market demands in the future, but for now, we’re focusing on a single tasting menu with an experiential approach. Of course, if we have regular customers, we’ll consider a tailored menu.”

Tagliolini and Tortellini on the same plate…

“It came from a conversation with lawyer Romeo (Alfredo Romeo). These are the two types of pasta I love, so I decided to put them together.”

A sort of fresh pasta mix?

“Exactly. Something new, something different – something memorable.”

Which Italian chef best represents Italian cuisine today?

“I’m not answering that! Every great Italian chef represents their region. I won’t name anyone.”

Did you expect a Michelin Star for the Romeo Luxury Hotel in Naples?

“No, we opened in July. Of course, having stars is better, but we live perfectly well without them.”

Why is it better to have Michelin Stars?

“For the ego – of the chef and the staff. Next year, yes, I’m expecting a star.”

What question are you tired of answering?

“Who is your favourite chef or restaurant? I usually reply, ‘the one I have yet to discover.’”

Fair enough. One last question: what question has no one ever asked you?

“When will you stop opening restaurants? Maybe they haven’t asked because they lack the courage. Anyway, I already have the answer.”

What is it?

“I’m just getting started.”