Unexpected Tuscany. Orpicchio and ansonica, two meat-friendly whites!

Jul 12 2023, 12:10

We never stop learning from the wines of Tuscany. In this episode of Vini Rari - Rare Wines, we talk about two rare grape varieties such as orpicchio and ansonica, which produce whites with structure and Mediterranean character

832 and 1750 bottles respectively. We continue our journey into the world of artisanal wine, and go to Tuscany to delve into its white side. Our first stop is on the island of Giglio, and we immerse ourselves in the rows of ansonica trees overlooking the sea. The name of the wine is a tribute to the landscape, Scoglio Nero. We tasted the first vintage produced by Tenuta Isola in Giglio, a new project strongly desired by Tenuta Case Nuove.

The 2019 vintage betrays a rich, ripe, pulpy texture with Mediterranean hints of herbs and delicately iodised tones. We remain in the region, but move to the Tuscan hinterland, specifically to Vinci, to meet Orpicchio. It is the name of a wine and at the same time that of a vine in risk of extinction, we are in the family of Trebbiano Toscano, a rare biotype that has been carefully studied by the Dianella winery. Distinctive characteristics include early ripening and a high sensitivity to botrytis.

After years of research, the right clone was identified, planted in a single vineyard that is now entering its mature phase. Upon tasting it, the 2019 is still very young, fragrant, lashingly acidic and savoury, but at the same time rich in body and structure. In both cases one can really have fun with the pairings, especially with white meats, but also playing with spices to enhance the piquant and roasted aspects.

wine

Scoglio Nero Tenuta Isola del Giglio 2019

Tenuta Casenuove

Tuscany

white

Score:

/100

VINEYARD | Walking among the vines on the island of Giglio, pearl of the Tuscan archipelago, is a real luxury. The rows extend over a very small area, 1.2 hectares, overlooking the sea. The variety cultivated is the ansonica, the great protagonist of the island, which well succeeds in bringing the Mediterranean character of the island into the glass. The soils consist of sands of granite origin dating back 5 million years. The wine ferments in steel and then matures partly in used barriques and partly in stoneware containers. The wine is put on the market three years after the harvest after adequate rest in the bottle.   PERSON | Tenuta Isola del Giglio is the ambitious project of Philippe...

wine

Orpicchio 2019

Dianella

Tuscany

white

Score:

/100

VINEYARD | Orpicchio is a project that started in 2009 after selecting and studying some Trebbiano biotypes already present in the winery. Thanks to DNA analysis, the vine was identified and reproduced in a single dedicated vineyard. Located in Vinci, in the province of Florence, after manual harvesting the grapes undergo cryo-maceration and then ferment in steel tanks for a month; the wine then matures in French oak tonneaux for 12 months and is then refined in the bottle for a further 6 months at least. PERSON | The winery is managed with passion and enterprise by Veronica Billeri and Francesco Passerin d'Entreves, a couple at work and in life, who follow the production activity as well as the accommodation...