Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi are the flagships of Vini d'Italia. A review that embraces small productions along with prestigious best sellers, involving the finest labels tasted by our experts: in this new monthly column we will take you on the journey of our tasting notes.
A fledgling winery, with merely six vintages under its belt, Arno was established by Michael Arno, from Emilia-Romagna, and Mara, a Portuguese native from the Douro Valley. Their shared passion for wine led them to purchase an estate in Mombercelli, right in the heart of Nizza. In addition to the vineyards around the cellar, they also have plots in Castelnuovo Calcea. The predominant grape here is barbera, some from vines going back more than 75 years. They also cultivate nascetta, a lesser-known indigenous white grape from Piedmont, and sauvignon. The Nizza Leone Riserva '19 is among the best of the appellation, emanating intense aromas of spices and dark forest fruits. The palate is rich and fleshy but also exhibits great finesse and harmony, leading to a juicy and pleasant finish. The Barbera d'Asti Superiore Maria Augusta '19 is right up there, unveiling complex tones of quinine and dried herbs, great density, and an austere finish on a slightly bitter note.
The fascinating Nizza Lorella '18 shows intense aromas of sweet spices and black berries, with a pulpy, fresh and long palate.
This year we especially appreciated the Franciacorta Brut Cuvée alla Moda, a blend of Chardonnay (80%) and Pinot Nero (20%). It opens intense on notes of yeast, almond and toasted hazelnut. The palate is rich and pulpy, with creamy, measured prickle, and an expansive, harmonious finish.
The Nature Noir '15 is intriguing and absolutely precise in the texture of its bubbles, as well as in its forthright gustatory complexity.
The large cooperative of Caldaro is one of the most important producers in the region. Today, Thomas Scarizuola is the head of the group, building on a production approach aimed at expressing the territory through an elegant style, focusing on tension. Their broad portfolio consists of wines that focus on varietal expression and wines that express a strong bond with the vineyard of origin. The emblematic Lago di Caldaro Quintessenz '22 comes from the oldest and best-exposed vineyards in the St. Josef area, making for a light and enchantingly fresh wine aromatically, with wild fruit supported by spices and floral notes. On the palate, it's supple, sapid, and unfaltering. The Pinot Bianco '21 releases whiffs of fresh fruit and flowers while in the mouth it unfolds decisively, finishing crisp and racy.
The vineyard that gives life to this wine is located in Pianizza di Sopra, at an altitude of 500 meters (1,640 feet) with eastern exposure. You can breathe elegance in the fragrant aromatic profile that caresses yellow peach, herbs and white flowers. The palate is soft and juicy, thanks to the sapidity that enhances the taste.
The Adami family's winery has long been a paragon of quality in the Prosecco Superiore appellation, boasting not only an impressive estate but also the expertise to fully express the potential of grapes ripening on the beautiful Unesco heritage hills. Armando and Franco, along with their children Fabrizio, Claudio, and Cristina, have invigorated the winery, producing traditional wine typologies as well, such as lees-aged Prosecco. 2022 blessed the Vigneto Giardino with a rich fruity expression that shines clear and inviting. This Dry Prosecco on the nose moves from yellow fruit to exotic nuances. In the mouth, its sweetness perfectly converges with sapidity and acidic drive. In stark contrast, the Col Credas explores the more restless and vibrant side of the appellation, highlighted by softer and fresher aromas that are echoed by an energetic palate with significant acidic tension.
The Giardino '20 proves exemplary. It's a wine that conveys all the playfulness of Prosecco, wrought of fresh, enticing aromas, lightness of flavor, sapidity and balanced sugars.
When siblings Eligio and Claudio Bonomo established their family venture in 1958, they couldn't foresee Monte del Fra blossoming into a vital player in the region's viticulture. Today, their grandchildren Marica and Massimo oversee a robut operation, bolstered by some 200 hectares of vineyards that occupy some of Verona's most important appellations, resulting in a range that stands out for its depth and finesse. The Ca' del Magro '21 took advantage of a good year and put in a performance for the ages. On the nose it proves vibrant in its expression of citrus, exotic fruit, and flowers, sensations that we find even clearer on the palate, where the wine is rich, sapid and long. The Bonomo Sexaginta '20, a white of depth and elegance, benefits from perfectly integrated oak, while the Scarnocchio '17 proves to be a supple, deep Amarone.
Custoza Ca 'del Magro '19 is a wine that reminisces on ripe yellow fruit, with floral notes and a burst of saffron. In the mouth, the balanced richness of its acidity and its characteristic sapidity are striking.
Owned by the François family since 1897, Castello di Querceto is currently managed by Alessandro François and his children, Lia and Simone. Located not far from Greve in Chianti in the highest hilly area bordering Arezzo, the winery experiences significant day-night temperature swings and an almost continental climate. The winery has already demonstrated its ability to interpret these characteristics well, producing clearly defined wines capable of expressing the most refined and classic features of local Chianti Classico. The Chianti Classico Gran Selezione La Corte '20 features a defined aromatic profile, conjuring up notes of root, wild berries and slightly smoky tones. In the mouth, the wine is well-focused: fragrant, dynamic and sapid. The Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Picchio '20 has a denser texture, with sweet and lush fruit marking the aromas (which also include graphite and spices). The rest of their wines also perform notably.
The Chianti Classico Ris. '18 performed well, offering up balanced aromas amidst fruity hints and toasty nuances, as well as a nice note of flint to top things off. In the mouth it's long and reactive, with spirited tannins underlining its character.
The 16th-century Villa La Ferdinanda, formerly owned by the Medici family and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, represents the heart of the winery. The Olmo family has owned the property since the 1980s, with management now in the hands of Annabella Pascale and Francesco Spotorno Olmo. The vineyards span two historic territories: Carmignano and Chianti Montalbano, which, though close to each other, fall in two different provinces: Prato and Florence. A meticulous study of the soils has enabled the producers to identify grapes best suited to each vineyard. Perfectly harmonizing with the splendid 2019 vintage, the Carmignano Grumarello Riserva melds immediate flavor pleasure and depth, set to pace by a fresh vein accented by balsamic and minty notes. The Carmignano Poggilarca '20 stands out as a prime example of a structured wine, wherein the power of its palate subtly unfolds alongside polished tannins and a lengthy finish on dark fruits, rain-soaked earth, and intriguing vegetal nuances.
The excellent Carmignano Riserva Grumarello 2016 proves rich in aromas of plum, undergrowth and pepper. On the palate it's velvety, with a fine, silky tannic weave and a nice, sapid and mineral finish on whiffs of pencil lead.
Stefano Antonucci has long been clear that his wines should bring immediate pleasure. Wines that dare to make you fall in love at the first sip and, at their best, continue to do so for years, following a natural tendency towards complexity given by the passage of time. To achieve this, he relies on a seasoned team of professionals, including the Rotatori brothers, Daniele and Roberto, consulting winemaker Pierluigi Lorenzetti, and agronomist Antonio Verdolini. The winery is equipped with the cutting-edge technology. The whites submitted saw the Tardivo ma non Tardo '21 put in an excellent performance. Alluring in its softness on the palate after a variegated nose. Joining it is the always reliable Stefano Antonucci '21, a wine with a slightly smoky touch but plenty of vitality on the palate, as well as the Le Vaglie '22—a very pleasant, citrusy drink. We also appreciated the Lina '21, an elegant and persistent sweet wine. The Moss Blanc '20 is a bit woody, but its texture and strength promise superb longevity.
The Verdicchio Stefano Antonucci hits the mark in the 2022 Vini d'Italia guide with the 2019 vintage: polished, dynamic, juicy and deep are some of the best adjectives to describe it.
Brothers Giovanni, Domenico, and Vincenzo carry on the legacy of Luigi, an esteemed citizen who began farming in Scerne di Pineto in the 1950s. Today, the Barba brothers' estate spans over 60 hectares of vineyards in the Teramane Hills, in Casal Thaulero, Colle Morino, and Vignafranca. Their portfolio interprets the territory through local grapes like Montepulciano, Trebbiano, and Pecorino, yielding wines with a strong varietal expression. The 2021 version of the Yang, a Colline Teramane, pours a bright color, anticipating the usual broad aromatic suite of red flowers, sweet spices, and ripe red fruits. On the palate, it stands out for its round, velvety tannins. The Vasari '20 reveals the use of oak for maturation, not so much in its toastiness, but in the sweet hints of vanilla. The palate is full and clear, with the grape's vigor well tamed. The Pecorino Collemorino '22 proves rich on the nose, playing on tones of white peach and tropical fruits.
A good example is the Colline Teramane Yang '19. Medicinal herbs, balsamic nuances, pepper, earth, black olive, blueberries and pencil lead make up this red's multifaceted aromatic suite, while the palate showcases creamy tannins supported by a pleasant, sapid sensation.
Speaking of the breathtaking beauty of the terraced slopes overlooking the Amalfi Coast inevitably brings to mind the phrase "heroic viticulture." This term also aptly describes the work of Marisa Cuomo and Andrea Ferraioli, who are aided by their children, Dora and Raffaele. Their 18 hectares, perched above the Tyrrhenian Sea, host native grapes: piedirosso and sciascinoso for the reds, and ripoli, fenile, and ginestra for the whites. Among these, the Fiorduva stands out as the winery's flagship. The 2022 introduces the familiar warm aromatic profile of yellow spices, candied lemons, citron, basil, and white honey. The palate proves sunny, fruit-rich, soft, and pervasive, refreshed by summery citrus sensations. The Furore Bianco '22 calls up sea cliffs, coriander, lemon peel, and Mediterranean herbs: it doesn't aim for complexity as much as freshness and drinkability. A similar pattern for the Ravello Bianco '22, expressive and very acidic. The Furore Rosso Riserva '20 also delivers.
And the Fiorduva once again earns Furore a Tre Bicchieri. The usual multifaceted nose (straw and hay, spicy nuances, candied ginger, citron peel) anticipates a mouth that's creamy, yes, but more confident and graceful than with certain past versions; a balanced acid tension carries Mediterranean flavor and warmth into a long finish.
Over the past two decades, the Montanaro family has meticulously restored a 15th-century farmhouse, transforming it into a winery, hotel, and restaurant. Nestled in the heart of the Terra delle Gravine Regional Natural Park, it's surrounded by their vineyards, which boast a range of both traditional and international grape varietals. Their wines primarily emphasize varietal expression, with special attention given to approachability and the richness of fruit. The Primitivo Centosassi '20 unveils a wonderful freshness. It opens on aromatic herbs and black plum aromas before a juicy and sapid palate, leading to a pleasantly delightful finish. The Onda del Tempo '21, a complex blend of primitivo, aglianico, merlot, and cabernet sauvignon, stands out for its vegetal and spicy tones. The Dolce Vitae '21, a Malvasia passita, offers up scents of candied orange peel and chestnut honey, revealing a balanced palate with balsamic nuances and a finish that's taut without being overly sweet.
The Aglianico '17 exhibits nice texture and freshness, with floral and black fruit notes followed by nuances of Mediterranean scrub and a long, juicy finish.
This large cooperative winery, established by Angelo Maci in 1989 and currently one of the most significant in the region, comprises 1,200 grower members. Together they cultivate vineyards across the provinces of Brindisi, Taranto, and Lecce, with 40% hosting Apulian bush-trained vines, almost entirely red grapes (with traditional grapes being the majority). The result is a broad array of wines (over 30), all skillfully made and notable for their modern touch and Mediterranean flair. The Salice Salentino Rosso Selvarossa Riserva '20 unveils toasted hints, sweet spices, and black fruits. It's close-knit and brimming with fruit, culminating in a lengthy and delightful finish. The 1943 del Fondatore '21, a blend of primitivo and aglianico, stands out for its spicy aromas intertwined with notes of ink, quinine, and black fruit jams. Other notable wines include the sapid and fruity Primitivo di Manduria San Gaetano '22, and the fresh and spirited Selvamara Negroamaro '22.
Another nice performance for the 1943 Del Presidente, a blend of Primitivo and Aglianico. The 2019 features nuances of black berries adorned by balsamic nuances on the nose, while the palate exhibits notable structure, but also juice and length.
The Insalata family has been engaged in the wine industry for four generations, but it was only in 2011 that Terrecarsiche 1939 was formally established (a name that references the beginnings of the family tradition). The winery operates in the Gioia del Colle and Valle d'Itria appellations, but also counts on trusted growers, who are overseen year-round by the winery. The wines on offer are modern, with a focus on richness of fruit and clear aromatic expression. The Gioia del Colle Primitivo Fanova consistently takes center stage. The 2021 yields sweet tobacco and blueberry aromas, leading to a consistent, clear, lengthier and more robust palate than anticipated. The Passaturi Minutolo '22 is appropriately aromatic, with citrus and balsamic notes, and a sapid, pleasant palate. The Gioia del Colle Primitivo Fanova Riserva ‘19 proves spicy, with floral nuances and abundant fruit.
The well-made Gioia del Colle Primitivo Fanova '19 impresses with its aromas of cherry jam and mulberry on the nose, while the palate is clear and focused, consistent, with nice freshness and length.
The winery was founded by architect Giuseppe Muzzillo with his sons Eugenio and Francesca, professors at the University of Naples, respectively of Philosophy and Landscape Architecture. Its production has always been among the most interesting ones in a territory with viticulture potential such as Donnici. Among the recent novelties, longer macerations, and the old barriques replaced by new and larger barrels. Wines have benefited from it since the onset.
L'Estremo is a pure Magliocco, already thick in its aromatic profile which plays between nuances of ripe black berries, sweet spices and toasted sensations. On the palate the tannin makes itself felt, forming the framework for a fragrant taste.
