VINEYARD | We are in Sicily, on the island of Salina, in the locality of Malfa, the vineyards overlook the sea and Stromboli peeks out in the background. A few metres from State Road 182, we find a handful of rows of zibibbo grapes, processed entirely by hand, with yields that only a crazy passion can justify. The berries, harvested late, are left to dry in the sun on cane racks for about two months, almost 90% of the product is lost. In the cellar the wine rests in used old barrels, without the addition of sulphites at any stage of vinification, for a unique style Malvasia.
PERSON | Luigi Ramaglia works as commander of the port authority of Santa Marina Salina. He has travelled across seas, but his true passion is the vineyard. Of Neapolitan origin, he moved to Salina for love. And here he produces every year a handful of bottles vinified without any addition of sulphites at any stage of production. He decided to use old barrels, for wines that play with oxidation and concentration, reaching a very rare flavour density: lots of residual sugar and the right acidity. A taste that is not easily forgotten.
WINE | There is the whole lesson of Marsala in this wonderful Malvasia delle Lipari. Starting from the colour, mahogany, with dark amber reflections. The scents are a journey, they should be expected calmly: dates, walnuts, almonds, leather, orange peel, freshly roasted coffee. Intense, poignant hints, relaunched by a thread of volatile, while on the palate the concentration is majestic and viscous. The mouth offers a combination of sweet, delicately bitter and salty sensations out of the ordinary, in an umami sensation that truly surprises. Counterpoints of spices, iodine, dried figs, salted caramel, seaweed are revived. The finish is endless. If the beginning is difficult, 30 minutes after opening the wine it continues to change and evolve, it gradually becomes lighter. A real gem to discover.
